You may not be aware of this, but your iPhone may be keeping a detailed list of locations which you frequently visit, and some which I’ve only visited once or twice. It also stores a surprisingly creepy amount of detail for each visit including the dates, times and duration of your visits, the address and GPS co-ordinates of the location and even details on which mode of transportation you take to get there.
According to Apple, this feature is used to learn which places are significant to you and it uses this information to provide suggestions on transport options and places which may be of interest to you. They also claim that the list of locations information is encrypted, stored only on your device and is not used without your consent. Apple isn’t the only one keeping track of your location information, the majority of smartphones make use of this information in some form. Google, for example, does this too, you can access a location history list through your Google account.
Here’s How To See List Of Locations Which Your iPhone Is Storing
Open up your Settings app and then head down to Privacy.
Open up the first option, Location Services.
Here’s you’ll see a list of which apps are allowed access to your device’s location and when. Scroll down to the bottom and select System Services.
Now you’ll see a list of system related functions which have access to your location and an arrow showing you when last the service accessed your location information. Scroll down to the bottom of this list and select Significant Locations.
You’ll now see a pretty comprehensive list of everywhere your iPhone has recently been, organised by city.
You can open up each city to get more information on specific locations, how many times you’ve been to them, the dates, times and in some cases, how you got there.
For your saved locations in Maps, you can find a lot of information on your recent trips to and from Work or Home, for example.
To turn this feature off, you’ll want to head down to the bottom of the list and clear your history first.
Then scroll up to the top and you’ll be able to toggle this feature on and off.
Now that you know how your iPhones location services work, take a look at these 5 iPhone secret codes which you probably didn’t know about.
Have you found your location information stored on any of your other devices? Let us know in the comments section below.
You’ve found yourself in a situation where your house looks like a mess and you’ve got friends or family coming over in fifteen minutes. How do you use the next ten to fifteen minutes to make the maximum impact in making it look like you have a clean and tidy home? We’ve put together this list of steps which you can work through. They’re in order of importance so don’t worry if you don’t manage to get through all of them, you’ll still get through the most important ones first.
Prepare Your Equipment
Spend a minute or two gathering your equipment and getting organised, this will ensure that you can quickly and effectively get through each task without wasting time wandering around looking for things.
You’ll need:
Air freshener spray, mist or a scented candle/melt pot
Large basket, box or bag
Handheld vacuum cleaner or broom
Cleaning wipes or a damp cloth and cleaning spray
Dishwasher or a sink full of soapy water.
Get The Air Smelling Good
Nothing puts guests off a home quicker than a strange smell or odour in your home, so get this out of the way first. Open up some windows and doors to get air movement through your home and give each room a quick spray of air freshener. Alternately, light a candle or melt pot in your main living room or kitchen.
You could also throw come cookie dough into the oven and you’ll fill your home with a freshly baked fragrance and you’ll have freshly baked cookies for your guests.
If you’ve got a few extra minutes, put on a simmer pot to fill your house with a homely aroma.
Get Rid Of The Clutter
Next, grab your large basket, box or bag and go around the main living areas and kitchen (anywhere your guests may go) and put anything which is lying around, out of place or just generally cluttering up your house into the basket. Don’t worry about packing them away for now, just get them into the basket and find a place to store the basket until they’ve left.
If your guests are coming over for any period of time or have had a long drive, they’ll likely need to use your bathroom. Give your bathroom sink and counter a quick wipe, make sure that there is enough toilet paper and hand soap and give the toilet a quick flush. If you’ve got a toilet fizzy or some toilet cleaner handy, a quick squirt around the rim will help to freshen it up.
Clean Up The Living Room
This is probably where your guests will be spending most of their time. You’ve already got rid of the clutter and freshened up the air, now give the surfaces a wipe and quickly vacuum or sweep the main areas around the coffee table and walkways. A cordless vacuum cleaner is really handy to keep your home clean and tidy if you lead a busy lifestyle.
Fold any throws or blankets and put them into the cupboard or hang them neatly over the back of the couch.
Straighten any books or magazines and put them in a neat pile in the middle of the coffee table or on the shelf underneath the coffee table.
Sweep or Vacuum The Entrance
Give your home’s entrance a sweep or vacuum and wipe up any shoe prints or dirt spots on the floor.
Clean The Dishes
By now your home should be fairly clean and tidy. If you’ve got a minute or two to spare then pack the dishes into the dishwasher or give them a wash in the sink. Stack them neatly on the drying rack and then give your kitchen surfaces a wipe.
If you’ve got a pile of dishes and really don’t have time to clean them. Stack them neatly and put them into the refrigerator or oven, this way they’ll be out of sight. Just don’t forget that they’re in there.
If you’ve worked your way through the whole list then your house should now be guest ready. Now get yourself ready as well, you don’t want to be flustered when they arrive.
Have you got any tricks to quickly clean up and make it look like you’ve got a tidy home? Let us know in the comments section below.
This is a really easy RFID door lock mechanism which is based on the Arduino Uno and the RC522 RFID sensor, which allows you to use RFID tags or cards to lock and unlock a door, drawer or cupboard. You can load as many RFID tags as you’d like onto the Arduino and add or remove tags to provide more or fewer people with access. The lock is actuated with a micro servo, which can be used along with the 3D printed lock provided in this example, or any standard bolt type lock available from your local hardware store.
This guide assumes that you’ve worked with an Arduino micro-controller before and know the basics of programming an Arduino. If you do not, follow the linked guide for more information on creating and uploading your first sketch.
Here is a summary of the build, continue reading for full step by step instructions along with the code and print files:
What You Need To Make Your Own Arduino Based RFID Lock
3D Printer & Filament (Optional for Lock) – This One Used
How To Make Your RFID Door Lock
To start off, lets connect the RFID sensor, LEDs and servo to your Arduino using a breadboard. This will enable you to test the circuits and to read the serial numbers from your tags in order to load them into the array in your code so that they open the lock.
The Circuit
The RC522 sensor is going to be connected to our Arduino using the SPI interface. We are then going to connect a green LED which will flash to show that a tag has been read and access has been granted and a red LED which will flash to indicate that a tag has been read an access has not been granted. Lastly, a micro servo will be used to open and close the locking mechanism. The LEDs and micro servo are connected using typical Arduino circuits.
Here is the circuit:
Once you’ve got the circuit connected on your breadboard, you’ll need to print and assemble your lock mechanism.
Building The Lock Mechanism
If you’ve got a 3D printer, the easiest way to get started with an RFID door lock is to print out the below components and servo bracket. The lock mechanism is based on this sliding lock design by Sagittario which I have scaled down to 65% of the original size.
I 3D printed the lock mechanism and servo holder using white PLC at 185C and 20% infill.
If you don’t have a 3D printer, you can use any standard bolt type sliding lock available from your local hardware store. You’ll just need to attach one end of the servo push rod to the bolt to actuate it. You’ll also need to build a simple servo bracket to hold the servo in place behind the lock. You can just epoxy or glue the servo in place, but a screwed on bracket is usually a bit stronger.
Uploading The Code
Once you’ve assembled your lock mechanism, you’re ready to upload your code and load your tag numbers into the array.
Here is the code:
//The DIY Life
//Michael Klements
//27 January 2020
#include <SPI.h>
#include <RFID.h>
#include <Servo.h>
RFID rfid(10, 9); //D10:pin of tag reader SDA. D9:pin of tag reader RST
unsigned char status;
unsigned char str[MAX_LEN]; //MAX_LEN is 16: size of the array
String accessGranted [2] = {"310988016", "19612012715"}; //RFID serial numbers to grant access to
int accessGrantedSize = 2; //The number of serial numbers
Servo lockServo; //Servo for locking mechanism
int lockPos = 15; //Locked position limit
int unlockPos = 75; //Unlocked position limit
boolean locked = true;
int redLEDPin = 5;
int greenLEDPin = 6;
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600); //Serial monitor is only required to get tag ID numbers and for troubleshooting
SPI.begin(); //Start SPI communication with reader
rfid.init(); //initialization
pinMode(redLEDPin, OUTPUT); //LED startup sequence
pinMode(greenLEDPin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(redLEDPin, HIGH);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(greenLEDPin, HIGH);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(redLEDPin, LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(greenLEDPin, LOW);
lockServo.attach(3);
lockServo.write(lockPos); //Move servo into locked position
Serial.println("Place card/tag near reader...");
}
void loop()
{
if (rfid.findCard(PICC_REQIDL, str) == MI_OK) //Wait for a tag to be placed near the reader
{
Serial.println("Card found");
String temp = ""; //Temporary variable to store the read RFID number
if (rfid.anticoll(str) == MI_OK) //Anti-collision detection, read tag serial number
{
Serial.print("The card's ID number is : ");
for (int i = 0; i < 4; i++) //Record and display the tag serial number
{
temp = temp + (0x0F & (str[i] >> 4));
temp = temp + (0x0F & str[i]);
}
Serial.println (temp);
checkAccess (temp); //Check if the identified tag is an allowed to open tag
}
rfid.selectTag(str); //Lock card to prevent a redundant read, removing the line will make the sketch read cards continually
}
rfid.halt();
}
void checkAccess (String temp) //Function to check if an identified tag is registered to allow access
{
boolean granted = false;
for (int i=0; i <= (accessGrantedSize-1); i++) //Runs through all tag ID numbers registered in the array
{
if(accessGranted[i] == temp) //If a tag is found then open/close the lock
{
Serial.println ("Access Granted");
granted = true;
if (locked == true) //If the lock is closed then open it
{
lockServo.write(unlockPos);
locked = false;
}
else if (locked == false) //If the lock is open then close it
{
lockServo.write(lockPos);
locked = true;
}
digitalWrite(greenLEDPin, HIGH); //Green LED sequence
delay(200);
digitalWrite(greenLEDPin, LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(greenLEDPin, HIGH);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(greenLEDPin, LOW);
delay(200);
}
}
if (granted == false) //If the tag is not found
{
Serial.println ("Access Denied");
digitalWrite(redLEDPin, HIGH); //Red LED sequence
delay(200);
digitalWrite(redLEDPin, LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(redLEDPin, HIGH);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(redLEDPin, LOW);
delay(200);
}
}
Before you upload your code, you’ll need to install the RFID library which is bundled with the sketch zip file. This is easily done in your Arduino IDE by clicking on Sketch -> Include Library -> Add .ZIP Library and the selecting the zipped library file.
In the code we first include the required libraries and then set up the sensor object and an array to return the read tag serial number.
The next array and its associated size is used to store the serial numbers for all of the tags which you’d like to grant access to. You’ll need to find and update these numbers using the serial monitor by uploading this code and then scanning your tags. The Serial monitor will display the tag’s serial number and then state that access is denied. Copy this number into the array accessGranted, update the array size (number of tags registered) and then re-upload the code. You could also write a short section to enable you to register a new tag by pushing a button inside the sensor component box or inside the door for example.
We then set up the servo object and it’s travel limits. You may need to make adjustments to these limits to get your servo to move through it’s full range without over-travelling in either direction.
In the setup code, we connect to the RFID sensor, define the LED pins and then run through a quick LED flash startup sequence before making sure that the lock is in the locked position. You can remove the Serial monitor output lines in the code in your final version, these are just useful for registering your tags and debugging the system when you first assemble it.
We then run through the loop which waits for a card or tag to be scanned, determines its serial number and then passes this serial number through to a function called checkAccess to verify whether the tag number can grant access or not.
The checkAccess function simply takes the read tag number and then cycles through the array of accepted numbers to see if it is an accepted tag. If a match is found then the green LED is flashed and the lock is either opened or closed, depending on the previous state. If the tag number is not found in the array then the red LED is flashed and the lock is not opened.
Adding or Removing Accepted Tags
As mentioned in the previous step, the array accessGranted is used to store the serial numbers of the accepted tags and the integer accessGrantedSize stores the number of entries in this array.
To add a tag, you’ll need to scan the tag with the Serial monitor open on your PC. You’ll then get a message saying that the card has been read along with the serial number of the card and a message saying “Access Denied”. Simply copy this number into the array and update the size integer to reflect the new number of tags. Re-upload the code and you should now get an “Access Granted” message on the Serial monitor.
To remove a tag, find the tag serial number in the array (you may need to scan it as done previously) and remove it from the array. Update the array size for any tags which you remove as well.
It is fairly easy to include a push-button or two on the inside of the door or in the component box which will allow you to add or remove tags without having to update the code.
Using the Lock
You should now have a functioning RFID locking mechanism which can be easily installed onto a door, cupboard or container to restrict access to it. You can also put the sensor components into a simple container or housing to mount on the front side of the door, like this:
There are a couple of ways to make this lock a bit more secure if you’re actually going to be using it to secure a room or cupboard.
Start by replacing the 3D printed lock with a proper metal lock from a hardware store. Make sure that you have a solid connection between the lock and the servo and try to position the servo such that the arm is in line with the push-rod and the head of the slider when it is in the locked position. This will ensure that you can’t slip a thin object through the gap in the door and try to push the slider open, you’ll be pushing against the centre of the servo and not relying on the torque provided by the servo to keep the slider in place.
Next, place as few of the electronic components outside as possible. It is better to have the actual Arduino and servo connection inside the room or box and place only the RFID sensor and LEDs outside. It’s much more difficult to trick the Arduino into opening the lock using the RFID sensor connection than it is to simply provide a PWM signal to the servo to unlock the door.
Have you built your own RFID door lock using an Arduino? Is there anything you’d suggest doing differently?Let us know in the comments section below.
Being able to control your Arduino using an infrared remote control opens up a lot of possibilities for inputting data into your Arduino and getting it to respond to certain commands in order to change functionality or drive components. You could use an infrared remote control to control a robot or car, turn a light bulb on or off or change your program from one function to another.
You can use almost any infrared remote control to control your Arduino as you’re going to be decoding the signal sent from the control. Some Arduino kits are sold with a remote control or your could use your control from a TV, appliance or toy.
Pushing a button on the remote control causes the control to emit a coded infrared signal which is unique to each button on the control, allowing the appliance to determine which button was pressed and respond accordingly.
What You’ll Need To Control Your Arduino With An Infrared Remote Control
Your IR sensor will have three pins, these are 1 DATA, 2 GND and 3 VCC. To connect your sensor to your Arduino, you’ll need to power your sensor with 5V and GND on your Arduino and then connect your 1 DATA pin to an available output pin with a 10K resistor to 5V, as shown in the breadboard example below:
This is the only circuit you need to connect in order to be able to read IR signals from a remote control. In this example, we’re going to be using a remote control to control the brightness and colours of an RGB LED.
We’re going to use the numerical keypad so that numbers 1,2,3 increase the brightness of red, green and blue correspondingly, 4,5,6 decrease the brightness and 7,8,9 turn each colour off completely. The power button is additionally used to turn off all three colours completely.
We’ll need to add the LED and resistors to our breadboard as shown:
And that’s all you need to connect to be able to control your RGB LED with a remote control.
The Code
Now lets look at the code we need in order to read the value from our remote control and use it to control our RGB LED. We’ll be using the IRremote.h library to read the value from the remote control and convert the signal into a HEX value which we can then use to control our LED.
Here is the sketch:
//The DIY Life
//Michael Klements
//24 January 2020
#include <IRremote.h>
int iRPin = 4; //IR sensor connected to Pin 4
IRrecv irrecv(iRPin); //Create an IR object of the class
decode_results results;
int ledRPin = 5; //Define LED pin numbers
int ledGPin = 9;
int ledBPin = 6;
int rVal = 512; //Define initial brightness values - mid brightness
int gVal = 512;
int bVal = 512;
void setup()
{
//Serial.begin(9600); //Only used to get HEX value for each button
irrecv.enableIRIn(); //Start the IR receiver
pinMode(ledRPin, OUTPUT); //Define the LED pins
pinMode(ledGPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(ledBPin, OUTPUT);
}
void loop()
{
if (irrecv.decode(&results)) //Wait for an IR signal to be received
{
//Serial.println(results.value, HEX); //Only used to get HEX value for each button
changeLED(results.value); //Change the LED accordingly
irrecv.resume(); //Wait for next signal
delay(100);
}
}
void changeLED(unsigned long value)
{
switch (value) //Determine which button has been pressed
{
case 0xFD08F7: //Button 1 Pressed - Brighten Red
if(rVal<=973) //Stops red value from going too high, out of range
rVal = rVal + 50; //Increase red brightness
analogWrite(ledRPin,rVal);
break;
case 0xFD28D7: //Button 4 Pressed - Dim Red
if(rVal>=50) //Stops red value from going too low, out of range
rVal = rVal - 50; //Decrease red brightness
analogWrite(ledRPin,rVal);
break;
case 0xFD18E7: //Button 7 Pressed - Turn Red Off
analogWrite(ledRPin,0);
break;
case 0xFD8877: //Button 2 Pressed - Brighten Green
if(gVal<=973)
gVal = gVal + 50;
analogWrite(ledGPin,gVal);
break;
case 0xFDA857: //Button 5 Pressed - Dim Green
if(gVal>=50)
gVal = gVal - 50;
analogWrite(ledGPin,gVal);
break;
case 0xFD9867: //Button 8 Pressed - Turn Green Off
analogWrite(ledGPin,0);
break;
case 0xFD48B7: //Button 3 Pressed - Brighten Blue
if(bVal<=973)
bVal = bVal + 50;
analogWrite(ledBPin,bVal);
break;
case 0xFD6897: //Button 6 Pressed - Dim Blue
if(bVal>=50)
bVal = bVal - 50;
analogWrite(ledBPin,bVal);
break;
case 0xFD58A7: //Button 9 Pressed - Turn Blue Off
analogWrite(ledBPin,0);
break;
case 0xFD00FF: //Power Button Pressed - Turn All LEDs Off
analogWrite(ledRPin,0);
analogWrite(ledGPin,0);
analogWrite(ledBPin,0);
break;
}
}
I’ve put comments into the code to guide you through it and explain what each section does.
The two Serial lines which are commented out are needed when you first set up the code. You’ll need to uncomment the lines, run the sketch with your Serial monitor open and then push the 10 buttons used in this example on your own remote control in order to check and record the HEX values, it is unlikely that they will be the same as used in this example unless you happen to have the same remote. Record the values which are displayed for each button and then replace the values in the code. For example, replace 0xFD00FF for the power button with the new code shown on your Serial monitor. You’ll leave the 0x preceding the 6 digit code which you’ll have displayed.
Once you’ve made these changes then the code should run and your Arduino should respond to your remote control button pushes.
The code in the changeLED function is used to respond to each button press by using a switch statement to switch between the different buttons. You can add or remote buttons to this statement by adding or removing additional case lines.
If you use a different remote control or two remote controls, simply replace the values next to each case to correspond with your new remote’s values displayed in the Serial monitor. For two remote controls, duplicate cases line with your additional value as a second option.
You should now know enough to get your Arduino to respond to commands sent to it by one or more IR remote controls. Have you tried connecting an IR remote to your Arduino? What did you build and how did it go for you? Let us know in the comments section below.
As mobile phone costs continue to increase, most new iPhone buyers are hoping to get a few years worth of use out of each device. It is not uncommon for people to hold onto an iPhone for 4 or 5 years. In this article we take a look at some ways you can take better care of your iPhone to help you get the longest life out of it, keeping it going for many years to come.
Most of these tips pertain to the battery and how you charge your iPhone. This is because the battery is usually the first component to start packing up and one of the biggest reasons people land up getting a new iPhone. If your iPhone battery is already on its way out, there is good news, you can replace your iPhone battery yourself.
Keep Your iPhone Cool – Especially When Charging
Heat is one of the quickest killers of batteries and modern electronics, and the same holds true for your iPhone. Don’t leave your iPhone in a hot car, in the sun or in a place where it’s going to be kept hot for extended periods of time.
This also holds true when you’re charging your iPhone. Don’t charge it in confined or closed up spaces and if you’re using a bulky cover, get into a habit of removing it when charging your phone. The cover traps in the heat and reduces your iPhone’s ability to keep itself cool, reducing the life of the components and the battery.
You should also avoid wireless charging your iPhone too often. Wireless chargers are definitely a convenient way to charge your phone, and are becoming more prevalent in restaurants and airports, but you should avoid using them as your everyday charger as they also generate excess heat which in turn reduces the life of your battery.
Clean Your iPhone With A Microfiber Cloth
Keep your iPhone clean by periodically wiping it down with damp microfiber cloth. Unless your iPhone is really dirty, you shouldn’t need any chemicals. Harsh chemicals may damage the oleo-phobic coating on the display or the paint on the back and sides. If your device is heavily soiled or you’d like to give your iPhone a thorough clean, the best thing to use is eyeglass wipes which are stated as safe for use on anti-reflective coatings. These won’t damage the coating on your display or the finish on the back of your phone.
Avoid Charging Your iPhone Over 80%
Newer iPhones, running iOS 13 or later have a built in software function called optimised battery charging. This is a software feature which learns from your day to day charging habits and prevents your iPhone from charging to full capacity for extended periods or where it can get away with reduced charging. For example, if you leave your iPhone on charge overnight, it will only charge to 80% for most of the night even though its been left plugged in. Charging your battery to 100% puts it under stress, and the more stress placed on the battery, the shorter it’s lifespan will be.
If you don’t have this software feature, and just as a general rule, you should avoid charging your iPhone beyond 80% if you’re not going to need the full charge.
When your iPhone goes into an area where there is little or no phone service, it starts continuously “hunting” for reception. This causes your phone’s circuitry to work hardly and produces more heat, reducing the life of components and the battery. When you’re in an area which is known to have little or no reception, get into a habit of putting your iPhone into Airplane mode. This disables the transmitter and receiver and stops your iPhone from continuously searching for signal.
This can apply to being on an airplane, being in remote areas, underground or even on a cruise ship. If you have one bar or no signal at all then you should consider switching your phone to airplane mode until you’re back in a location with better reception.
Use The Buttons As Little As Possible
There’s a reason why Apple got rid of the home button, it was a common point of failure on their phones and anyone who has kept an iPhone for 4-5 years will likely have experienced one of the physical buttons, or the mute switch stop working.
Almost all of the functionality of the buttons and switch on your iPhone can be replicated through the software as well.
Use the auto-lock instead of the sleep/wake button, Assistive Touch instead of the TouchID/home button, turn off your iPhone from settings, adjust the volume using the slider in the Control Center, mute your phone using Do Not Disturb (although this will turn off vibrate as well).
There is no clear answer from Apple on how their phones manage storage space and whether it is used as swap space to supplement RAM, but the general consensus is that iPhone’s tend to slow down when they have less than 1GB of free storage space. So you should try and remove any unused apps and content to keep a bit of space free. Upgrading to iOS 12 on older devices frees up quite a bit of space due to the switch to HEVC and HEIF encoding and you can use iCloud to free up some storage space used for photos and documents etc..
What are some of the ways in which you’ve managed to get the longest life out of your iPhone? Let us know how old yours is and what your tips and tricks are in the comments section below.
You’ll probably never feel like you have enough storage space in your kitchen but there are ways you can maximise the space available to you. One of these ways it to add extra shelving to your existing cabinets to make use of any wasted space above the items you usually pack into them. We’ve found an easy and really cheap way to add an extra storage shelf to your cluttered kitchen cabinet for less than $2 and it looks like it was always supposed to be a part of the cabinet, not like an afterthought.
Have a look around your kitchen for any cabinets which have a lot of wasted headroom, like this one we use for storing pots and pans etc..
Take a measurement of the width and depth of the cabinet before you go out shopping for a new storage shelf. This way you’ll have an idea of what length and width shelf to look for.
Now finding a new shelf is where our handy tip comes in. If you head down to your local hardware store and get a shelf cut to size, you’ll probably pay around $15-$30 (depending on the type and size of shelf) for the shelf and the mounting hooks/pegs. Rather than doing this, have a look if your local hardware, kitchen or furniture store (IKEA is where we went) has a returns, clearance or damaged goods section. Most larger stores have some form of clearance section to get rid of their unwanted goods for a fraction of the usual retail price.
We managed to find the below white shelf for just $2, and it was amongst another 20-30 shelves of various sizes and colours. This shelf had been returned from a delivery and had it’s packaging damaged, there was literally nothing wrong with the shelf and it was marked down from $12 to $2 and it includes the four shelf supports/pegs.
When looking for a bargain shelf, don’t worry about the length. As long as the width is roughly correct, although it must be smaller than your depth, you’ll be able to trim it to size without any hassle. Also keep in mind that the depth doesn’t need to be the full depth of your cabinet. Our cabinet had gas pipes in the back, so we could only install the shelf in the middle area of the cabinet, with a gap behind it.
You could also put a smaller auxiliary storage shelf along the back for spices, tins, bottles etc.. Just try to find one which suites the depth of your cabinet and what you’d like to store on it and is a bit longer than the length of your cabinet. You could also try find one which is more than double the length and make two shelves from it.
Once you’re home, unpack your shelve and mark off the length of the inside of your cabinet. You’ll probably want to cut it around 1mm (1/20″) shorter for some clearance so that it’s not tight.
Use a circular saw (for the best cut quality) or a jig saw (more people seem to have one of these), band saw or hand saw to cut the shelf to the correct size.
There are typically two different types of supports, one which is simply pressed into or screwed into the walls of the cabinet, like these:
And then another, which is what we had, which fit into the actual shelf like these:
If you’re going to be using these then you’ll need to match the cutouts on the side you’ve trimmed.
Ours required two different sized holes to be drilled, followed by a cross drilling. It doesn’t need to be perfect, its on the bottom side of the shelf and can easily be covered up afterwards with a small white sticker or piece of tape if you need to hide it. These cutouts are typically machine produced and are difficult to neatly replicate with hand tools, but you should be able to create something which works.
Next you’ll need to drill the holes into the sides of the cabinets for the supports. Measure the height from the top or bottom of the cabinet to each of these holes to ensure that they’re all the same height so that your shelf is level. Then measure the distance from the front of the cabinet to the front support hole and then the distance between the front and back support holes, checking them against the cutouts drilled into the shelf. This is less important if you’re using the first type of support but will still produce a neater result if done properly.
Check all of your measurements again before drilling the holes. Make sure that the height is consistent on each side and that the support spacing is correct.
Drill your four support holes.
Push or screw the supports into the holes.
Lastly, install your shelf and press it onto the supports to secure it.
You can now repack your new kitchen cabinet storage shelf and re-organise your cluttered cabinet. Keep in mind that the best way to reduce clutter is to get rid of any appliances, food or items which you no longer need or use.
You can also get your cabinets looking great again by properly adjusting the hinges on your cabinet doors so that they’re straight and are able to open and close freely without bumping into the surrounding doors.
Have you added your own storage shelf to your kitchen cabinets? Let us know in the comments section below. We’d love to hear your tips and tricks.
Everyone should aspire to becoming better at living a greener and more sustainable life and your home is great place to start. Simply making a few changes in and around your home can go a long way towards reducing your carbon footprint, reducing your household waste and using energy and water more sparingly. It’s easier than you think, and usually starts with just becoming more mindful of your activities around your home. So we’ve put together a list of 20 ways in which you can make your home a bit more eco-friendly. We hope you try a few of them out!
Get a reusable coffee mug. If you’re somebody who enjoys a takeaway coffee on your way to work in the mornings, consider buying a reusable takeaway coffee cup instead of throwing a paper or plastic one away every day.
Get a re-usable water filter system rather than buying bottled water.
Go paperless by starting to read electronic versions of books, newspapers and magazines. Ask for electronic receipts and bills and stop unnecessary printing.
Start buying more sustainable products. This is a really easy one to implement and it just revolves around making better decisions when you’re out shopping. Next time you need a new cooking spoon, buy a bamboo one. Look for food products packaged in paper, cardboard or glass rather than plastic etc.
Take your own grocery bags with you. Instead of using single use bags every time you go shopping, buy a few re-usable ones and remember to take them with you on your next trip.
Buy longer lasting groceries and consumables in bulk to reduce packaging wastage.
There are a number of homemade cleaning products which you can make yourself which don’t contain harsh chemicals.
Buy a couple of recycling bins to keep in your laundry or garage to encourage you to start recycling your used glass, paper and tins/cans.
Start using biodegradable beeswax food wrap instead of plastic wrap.
Try growing your own veggies. This doesn’t have to be a full on greenhouse or farm in your garden, simply dedicate a small patch of soil in your back garden to be used for planting some easy to grow herbs and veggies. You can even buy small seedlings and start by growing them into full size plants using a DIY windowsill greenhouse.
Start composting your old veggie peels, scraps and garden trimmings to use around your garden. Your plants, and especially your veggie patch, will love the nutrients. Coffee grounds also make a great fertilizer for your plants.
Get into a habit of switching off your appliances and lights when you’re not using them, here are some ways to save on your electricity bill around your home and make your home more eco-friendly in the process.
Buy better quality shoes and clothing so that you don’t need to replace them that often.
Check that your home is adequately insulated and that your doors and windows are sealed properly so that you’re not wasting energy used in heating or cooling your home.
Consider installing a small array of solar panels to supplement your home’s energy usage.
Replace your traditional water heater with a heat pump or gas heater. They only heat up the water which you’re actually going to use, saving energy and saving you loads of money in the long run.
Conserve water in and around your home by installing water saving shower heads and toilets, these are usually the biggest users of household water.
Repair and upscale old or damaged furniture rather than throwing it out. You’ll be surprised at how well an old dresser or coffee table can turn out with just a fresh coat of paint.
Donate your old items instead of throwing them out. Instead of dumping your old furniture, clothes and appliances, rather donate them to local charity shops for others to use, repair or restore.
Start buying fewer things and live a more minimalist lifestyle, you’ll be surprised at how much happier and less stressed you feel living in a home with less clutter.
Implementing some of these tips will not only make your home more eco-friendly, but many of them will actually save you money as well.
What are some of the ways in which you’ve become more eco-friendly in and around your home? Let us know your tips and tricks in the comments section below. We’d love to hear from you.
I’ve designed this simple Arduino based automatic colour sorter which allows you to easily sort Skittles, M&Ms and other small coloured candy. Simply fill up the hopper and switch it on to sort your Skittles into five plastic test tubes. The sorter uses a cheap TCS34725 colour sensor module and a decision tree algorithm to sort the Skittles.
I’ve designed a few basic 3D printed components which you’ll need to print out in order to make your own sorter. The rest of the components are all widely available standard parts which I’ve linked in the materials list.
This guide assumes that you’ve worked with an Arduino micro-controller before and know the basics of programming an Arduino. If you do not, follow the linked guide for more information on creating and uploading your first sketch.
Here’s the video guide if you don’t feel like reading through the build:
What You Need To Build Your Own Arduino Based Skittles Colour Sorter
In addition to these, you’ll need basic tools for working with electronics and a glue gun or epoxy adhesive to assemble the components.
Assembling the Arduino Based Skittles Colour Sorter
The sorter is designed as two separate assemblies, the selecting assembly which selects a Skittle from the hopper/funnel, moves it to the colour sensor for identification and then moves it on to a hole which allows it to drop into the sorting chute. The sorting assembly holds the sorting tubes in place and supports the servo driving the sorting chute to direct each Skittle into the correct tube.
I have designed the selector and sorter assemblies to sort Skittles, so the components have been designed around the size of an average Skittle. But you can quite easily customise either of these assemblies to accommodate your own candy and make adjustments for materials which you may already have at home. If you’d like to sort M&Ms then you’ll need to add a 6th test tube, or you could change the test tubes for plastic cups if you already have them at home etc.
3D Print the Sorter Components
You’ll need to start off by 3D printing your components, the 3D print files can be downloaded here: Colour Sorter 3D Print Files
I used white and green PLA for mine and printed them at 15% infill. You can use any colours you like but I’d suggest using black, white or grey for the selector bottom and middle plates to avoid introducing reflected colour to your sensor module.
After 3D printing, make sure that you trim off or sand any stringy or warped areas and check that your Skittles are able to easily pass through the openings otherwise you’ll have continuous problems with Skittles getting stuck in the selector.
You’ll need a print bed of around 150mm (6”) to 200mm (8”) in order to comfortably print all of the components, the tube holders are the largest (longest) components in terms of lay-down area.
Assemble the Components
Once your components are 3D printed, you can begin assembling them.
Glue the two base pieces together and then insert your square tubing into the pocket in the base and glue it to secure it.
The tubes get glued into place on the top and bottom sorter pieces, you could also use a hook and loop cable strap to hold them in place if you’d like to be able to remove the tubes individually afterwards.
Then glue the servo arm into the pocket in the bottom of your sorting chute.
Finally, push the sorting chute onto the servo and glue the servo into place in the slot on the top sorting section. Try to ensure that your servo is in the middle of its travel range and that your chute is facing the centre tube. This isn’t critical as you can easily re-position the chute once your servo is powered up – see the calibration step at the end. Position it so that there is a small gap of about 3mm (0.1”) between the end of the chute and the centre tube. If you put it too close then your chute may catch on the tubes or the Skittles will overshoot the tubes and if you put it too far away then the Skittles will fall into the gap between the end of the chute and the tube.
Next you’ll assemble the selecting mechanism.
Push your TCS34725 RGB sensor into the recess in the top plate such that the pins stick out of the top of the plate. The recess should be a tight fit around the sensor so that you don’t have to glue it into place.
Plug your jumper leads into the pins on the back of the sensor module, then install the hopper/funnel.
Glue the selecting servo into the cutout in the bottom plate so that the center or rotating point of the servo arm is in the center of the plate.
Next, glue the servo arm into the middle plate and then push the plate onto the bottom plate. Make sure that your servo is in the center of its range of movement and try to position the hole roughly where the colour sensor module will be. This way you’ll avoid having to re-position the disk once you’ve powered on the servo and found that the holes are out of the travel range.
Push all three plates onto the aluminium tube stand and position them so that there is a gap of about 15mm (0.6”) – 20mm (0.8”) between the bottom plate hole and the top of the sorting chute before gluing the bottom plate into place on the stand. Don’t glue the top plate into place as you’ll need to be able to open it up for calibration and troubleshooting.
Depending on how long your servo extensions are and where you choose to position your Arduino, you may need to add jumper extensions onto them in order to reach the pins.
Connecting the Skittles Colour Sorter Circuits
The connections to your Arduino for this project are quite straight forward, shown in the below diagram:
We’re simply connecting a servo for the skittle selector to Arduino Pin 5, another servo for the sorting chute to Arduino Pin 9 and then the colour sensor to your Arduino using the I2C interface on Pins A4 and A5 with an optional connection to Pin 4 to control the onboard LED (otherwise the LED just stays on permanently).
If you’re going to be using a different Arduino board, make sure that the I2C pins are correct as these are different on different boards. For example the Pro Micro uses Pins 2 & 3 for SDA and SCL respectively, not A4 and A5 as in this project on the Uno.
All 3 of the connections (the two servos and colour sensor) require a 5V supply. This is easy to connect using a breadboard as shown in the diagram. I made a small adaptor which plugs into the 5V and GND pins on the Arduino and expands them to 3 female pins each, allowing me to remove the breadboard for my final assembly.
You’ll also need to connect a dedicated power supply or battery to your Arduino as the two servos draw too much power for the USB connection. You may find that your sorter works intermittently when using only the USB connection but it’ll be much more reliable with a stable power supply as the servos will be stronger and make more firm movements.
Programming Your Skittles Colour Sorter
Now that you’ve assembled your sorter and made the connections to your board, you can load the code onto your Arduino and check that the components work correctly.
// Michael Klements
// Skittles Colour Sorter
// 11 January 2019
// www.the-diy-life.com
#include <Wire.h> //Include the required libraries
#include "Adafruit_TCS34725.h"
#include <Servo.h>
Adafruit_TCS34725 tcs = Adafruit_TCS34725(TCS34725_INTEGRATIONTIME_50MS, TCS34725_GAIN_4X); //Setup the colour sensor through Adafruit library
Servo selector;
Servo sorter;
int pinLED = 4; //Assign pins for the colour picker LED, push button and RGB LED
int colourRedSP = 85; //Setpoint for Red to determine Yellow, Orange, Red from Green & Purple
int colourGreenSPGP = 97; //Setpoint for Green to determine Green from Purple
int colourGreenSPY = 91; //Setpoint for Green to determine Yellow from Orange and Red
int colourGreenSPO = 81; //Setpoint for Green to determine Orange from Red
int selectorPosition[3] = {26,80,130}; //Selector positions for Drop Area, Sensor and Hopper
int selectorSpeed = 15; //Speed to move selector
int sorterPosition[5] = {8,42,82,120,157}; //Sorter colour positions for Yellow, Orange, Red, Green and Purple
int sorterSpeed = 5; //Speed to move sorter
int sorterPos = sorterPosition[2]; //Stores current sorter position
void setup()
{
pinMode (pinLED, OUTPUT); //Assign output pins
selector.attach(5);
sorter.attach(9);
tcs.begin(); //Connect to the colour sensor
digitalWrite(pinLED, LOW); //Turn off the sensor's white LED
selector.write(selectorPosition[0]); //Set selector to drop position to start
delay(500);
sorter.write(sorterPos); //Set sorter to middle position to start
delay(500);
}
void loop()
{
moveSelector(0,2); //Move selector from drop position to hopper
delay(200);
moveSelector(2,1); //Move skittle from hopper to sensor
delay(200);
float red, green, blue;
digitalWrite(pinLED, HIGH); //Turn the sensor LED on for identification
delay(50);
tcs.setInterrupt(false); //Start measurement
delay(60); //Takes 50ms to read
tcs.getRGB(&red, &green, &blue); //Get the required RGB values
tcs.setInterrupt(true);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(pinLED, LOW); //Turn off the sensor LED
moveSorter (chooseTube(red,green)); //Move sorter to desired colour position
moveSelector (1,0); //Drop skittle
}
int chooseTube (int red, int green)
{
int tempPosition;
if (red >= colourRedSP) //If red is high
{
if (green >= colourGreenSPY) //If green is high
{
tempPosition = sorterPosition[0]; //Colour is yellow
}
else if (green <= colourGreenSPO) //If green is low
{
tempPosition = sorterPosition[1]; //Colour is orange
}
else //Else green must be medium
{
tempPosition = sorterPosition[2]; //Colour is red
}
}
else //Red must be medium or low
{
if (green >= colourGreenSPGP) //If green is high
{
tempPosition = sorterPosition[3]; //Colour is green
}
else //Else green must be medium or low
{
tempPosition = sorterPosition[4]; //Colour is purple
}
}
return tempPosition;
}
void moveSelector (int pos, int target)
{
if (pos < target) //Determine movement direction
{
for (int i=selectorPosition[pos]; i<=selectorPosition[target] ; i++)
{
selector.write(i); //Move servo in 1 degree increments with a delay between each
delay(selectorSpeed);
}
}
else
{
for (int i=selectorPosition[pos]; i>=selectorPosition[target] ; i--)
{
selector.write(i); //Move servo in 1 degree increments with a delay between each
delay(selectorSpeed);
}
}
}
void moveSorter (int target)
{
if (sorterPos < target) //Determine movement direction
{
for (int i=sorterPos; i<=target ; i++) //Move servo in 1 degree increments with a delay between each
{
sorter.write(i);
delay(sorterSpeed);
}
}
else if (sorterPos > target)
{
for (int i=sorterPos; i>=target ; i--) //Move servo in 1 degree increments with a delay between each
{
sorter.write(i);
delay(sorterSpeed);
}
}
sorterPos = target; //Update current sorter position
}
void calibrateSorter ()
{
for (int i=0; i<=4; i++)
{
moveSorter (sorterPosition[i]);
delay(2000);
}
}
void calibrateSelector ()
{
selector.write(selectorPosition[2]);
delay(2000);
moveSelector (2,1);
delay(2000);
moveSelector (1,0);
delay(2000);
}
The code contains comments to guide you through each line their purpose.
The color identification is based on the Adafruit colorview example code. You will need to have the Adafruit libraries installed. This is easily done by clicking on Tools -> Manage Libraries in your IDE and then typing in “Adafruit TCS” in the search bar and installing the found library.
Some things to look out for in the code:
You don’t have to use the LED control pin on the colour sensor, connected to Pin 4 in the code. You can remove this connection and the lines in the code relating to this Pin and your colour sensor module will still function correctly, you’ll just have the LED on permanently.
Don’t worry too much about the set points and positions in the code at this stage, we’ll go through the set up process in the next step. Just make sure that the components move as expected and that the colour sensor LED is illuminated, or at least illuminated periodically.
The code initializes the sensor and servos and then begins with the continuous loop.
The loop then runs through moving from the drop position to the hopper to select a Skittle. It then moves the Skittle to the colour sensor to take a colour reading, then decides which colour the Skittle is, moves the chute to the correct tube and then moves the selector to the drop position to drop the Skittle into the sorting chute and onward into the correct tube.
The sorting algorithm, called chooseTube, only requires the measurements for the red and green values in order to provide accurate sorting so we don’t send it the blue value as well.
The chooseTube algorithm is structured as a decision tree which is based on the levels of measured colour as follows:
The servo movement functions work on two different principles but are both used to slow down the movement of the servos to make the movement more reliable and stable.
The moveSelector function is based on a position and target reference, either 0, 1 or 2 based on where the selector needs to move next. This is done because the selector moves in a predicable sequence – always from hopper to sensor, sensor to drop and then from drop to hopper again.
The moveSorter function is a bit more complicated because the chute can be in any of the 5 positions and may be required to move to any of the other 4 positions. For this reason there is a global variable sorterPos which keeps track of the sorter’s actual current position and we simply send the function a target position and the function then decides how to move the servo to get to the target position.
It’s just important for troubleshooting or to make adjustments to the code to understand that the one method works on being sent a position reference referring to the array position number 0,1,2 and the other method is sent an actual servo position from 0 to 180.
Setting Up Positions & Calibrating The Colour Set Points
You’ll need to calibrate and set up three things in the code before your sorter will work correctly, we’ll do them in order of increasing complexity.
The first is setting up the sorting positions, or more specifically, the positions of the chute towards each of the tubes. These positions are defined in the array sorterPosition for Yellow, Orange, Red, Green and Purple respectively.
You can test the positions by running the function calibrateSorter in your setup code. This will move the chute to each of the five positions with a two second delay between each movement. You can then make adjustments in the sorterPosition array to get the chute lined up with each tube at each position. This code adjustment will only work if your chute is roughly positioned around the middle tube when it is set to position 90 (the servos midpoint of travel). If not then position your servo at 90 and then reattached the chute so that it’s facing the center tube. You’ll also need to re-upload your code between each adjustment to see the effect it has on the position.
Your next set up is with the selector. You’ll need to do the same as you’ve done above for the chute but now for the selector disk by running the calibrateSelector function.
Check that at position 2, the hole in the selector plate should be aligned with the hopper/funnel hole. At position 1, the hole in the selector plate should be positioned in the middle of the sensor module and at position 0, the hole in the selector plate aligns with the drop hole in the bottom plate. You can test the travel out by placing a Skittle into the hopper and checking that it is picked, moved along to the sensor and then dropped out of the selector after the full travel movement.
Your final calibration is with the colour set points. These are required to ensure that your sorter correctly identifies each colour according to the decision tree. So you need to tell the sorter which values to use to compare the measured colour with. The only way to do this reliably is to test a range of Skittles and see what your sensor measures for each.
I took a sample of 8 of each different colour Skittle, put them into the sorter and displayed the red, green and blue values for each on the Serial monitor, also recording them on a spreadsheet as shown below.
You don’t really need to record the blue values as these were not required in the code. This decision was only made after seeing the values for blue and then adapting the sorting algorithm to suit.
Once you’ve recorded all of your values, you’ll need to look at the recordings and decide on values for the below set points:
colourRedSP – This should be a value which is lower than the lowest red value recorded for the yellow, orange and red Skittles but higher than the highest recorded red value for the green and purple Skittles. This set point allows you to separate the yellow, orange and red Skittles from the green and purple Skittles.
colourGreenSPGP – This should be a value between the lowest green value recorded for the green Skittles and the highest green value recorded for the purple Skittles. This value allows you to separate the green Skittles from the purple Skittles.
colourGreenSPY – This should be lower than the lowest green value recorded for the yellow Skittles and higher than the highest green value recorded for the red Skittles. This value allows you to separate the yellow Skittles from the orange and red Skittles.
colourGreenSPO – This is the final set point and should be lower than the lowest green value recorded for the red Skittles but higher than the highest green value recorded for the orange Skittles. This value allows you to do the final separation of the orange Skittles from the red Skittles.
Once you’ve chosen these values and put them into your code, you’ll be ready to upload the code to your Arduino again and see how your sorter performs.
You may need to make adjustments to your selector and sorter servo positions as you go if Skittles are getting stuck in the hopper or selector or if they’re missing the tubes. You may also need to make adjustments to the set points if you land up with incorrectly sorted Skittles in each tube.
My one initially mixed up Green and Purple skittles quite often as well as Yellow and Orange ones. Playing around with the set points has now resulted in it never getting them wrong, well at least not while sorting a full family sized bag of Skittles.
Skittles do occasionally get stuck in the funnel/hopper, I’ll be trying to design a servo agitator which agitates the Skittles between each sort to ensure that the hopper doesn’t get blocked up.
Have you tried making your own Skittles colour sorter? Let us know in the comments section below or send us your pictures. We’d love to share you designs, tips and tricks.
Community Builds
Have a look at this great build by Jeff Trionfante. He added on a 6th tube to sort M&Ms and made some neat additions to the chutes to better guide the M&Ms and Skittles into the correct tubes.
If you’re planning on selling your home in the near future, you should start with some preparation work and this can often prove to be challenging. It’s easy to get overwhelmed when you see the end product of professionally flipped and staged homes for sale but you need to know that this process takes a lot of time and money.
However, this doesn’t mean you can’t do similar to boost the value of your home and make a good sale. You just need to focus on doing the crucial upgrades and repairs before selling your home and the profit will be guaranteed.
Take Care of Any Structural and Mechanical Issues
Taking care of the structural and mechanical issues is surely more expensive than other upgrades but it’s also of fundamental importance. If your potential buyers learn that they will need to pay for fixing the roof or faulty plumbing, it will surely put them off from buying.
Make sure you have the roof inspected as its condition can impact the value of your home. Appraisers often insist on roof replacement as a loan condition and even if it’s not always necessary, it will significantly boost the value of your home.
Also, your home needs to be in working order so taking care of plumbing and electrical wiring and fixtures are imperative. Also, it’s recommended you install energy-efficient appliances and have the HVAC serviced, repaired or replaced, if necessary, before selling your home.
Ask the Professionals
It’s always a smart move to consult the professionals so you could start by arranging a pre-sale home inspection. This can be very helpful in identifying issues and fixing them before you put it on the market. As a homeowner and layperson, it’s easy to miss a few crucial points which can impact the sale of your home.
Also, most lending companies around the world, including Australia, list a home inspection as one of the conditions for approving the loan for purchasing a home. Moreover, if you don’t deal with problems in the beginning, you’ll be forced to deal with them later which can prove to be very inconvenient and expensive. This is another opportunity to turn to pros for help and consult a real estate agent in Northern Beaches who can give you a better insight into what areas of your home need the most attention and how to go about organizing the inspection.
A Fresh Coat of Paint
One of the easiest and cheapest ways to start updating your home is by adding a fresh coat of paint. This can also be a DIY project which can help you save money. Browse online to pick up a few painting hacks and find the color palette and you’ll be on your way!
Refinish Hardwood Floors
Hardwood floors are undoubtedly the most popular flooring choice in a home and the way they look has a great impact on the appearance of a home. You need to make sure they look their best so refinishing them is a safe investment.
Nothing ruins a home sale more than shabby looking hardwood floors that have changed color, have scuffs and scratch marks and have lost their original shine so be sure to take care of your flooring before selling your home.
Update the Kitchen and Bathroom
Everyone loves a beautiful kitchen as it’s the heart of the home. Unless your agent advises so, don’t do a complete renovation. There are various minor repairs that can be very effective in making a great impression – a fresh coat of neutral paint, new countertops, replaced fixtures and hardware, and updated lighting.
As for the appliances, they need to be functioning properly but if they’re also outdated and not in sync with the renovation, you should replace them with newer models to appeal to buyers.
When it comes to bathrooms, a clean and sparkling bathroom always works. It’s a good idea to clean or replace grout, replace missing or chipped tiles and repaint the walls to make the room appear brighter, cleaner and bigger.
If there are any more serious issues such as a leaky faucet, clogged drain or a running toilet, it must be immediately fixed. Both bathrooms and the kitchen are very important spaces in every house that buyers always focus on so investing in these areas will surely increase your chances of making a sale.
Spruce up the Exterior
The exterior of your home is the first thing people see so you need to make sure it all looks neat. A great curb appeal can do wonders in attracting potential home buyers.
Start by mowing the lawn and taking out weeds. Add sod in worn-out patches of the yard. Plant colorful flowers in the beds, add a few potted plants by the front door and clean up any accumulated junk in the backyard and around your storage shed. Also, fix the crooked fence, remove moss on the roof and missing shingles and install new energy-efficient outdoor lighting that will cast new light on your spruced-up home!
Everything matters when it comes to selling your home, so consider implementing these upgrades to improve your chances of a quick and successful home sale. Whether you start with bigger issues and leave the details for the end or the other way round, all the improvements you make will boost the value of your home and make it more attractive for potential home buyers.
People living in apartments and more densely populated areas are facing increasing rules and regulations regarding what can be done common property and one their balconies. BBQs are a popular discussion point and the majority of apartment buildings already prohibit the use of coal and wood fires. Weber’s attempt at addressing some of these issues comes in the form of the Weber Pulse, an all-electric full size BBQ with their iGrill Bluetooth grill assistant built in.
The Weber Pulse comes in two models, the 1800W Pulse 1000 and the slightly larger 2200W Pulse 2000. The primary differences between the two being the size of the grilling surface and the fact that the 2000 has two independently controlled elements where the 1000 only has one. One other consideration is that the 2000 has four iGrill temperature probe inputs while the 1000 only has two.
The Weber Pulse is by no means an entry level BBQ. It may be a smaller sized BBQ and one of only a handful of all electric BBQs available but its price puts it quite high up the line-up.
Weber Pulse Initial Set Up
There isn’t really a whole lot to set up with the Weber Pulse. It comes almost entirely assembled in the box and all that you need to do is put the grill in place, push in the front control panel and you’re ready to go. The Pulse grill is sold separately to the cart, so if you’ve got an outdoor bench, work surface or table then you’ll be good to go with the Pulse only. If you’re look for a free standing BBQ or a little mobility, then you’ll want to get the cart as well.
The Pulse has a really good quality, premium feel to it. It is heavy for it’s size and this is largely due to the construction being a combination of thick cast iron and aluminium with a premium porcelain-enamelled cast iron grill. The handles and legs are plastic but they also have a heavy duty, sturdy feel.
The cart, unlike the grill, comes flat packed and is in a number of pieces. You’ll need to set aside around 15-30 minutes to assemble it and you’ll need a screwdriver to get the job done. The instructions are well documented and clearly marked, also pointing out any commonly made assembly mistakes and things to look out for.
The cart is mostly made from plastic, it has plastic legs and supports with stainless steel accents. The detachable side table slips in an out of place using stainless steel pegs into stainless steel slots to prevent wear. There are some cleverly thought out additions like the hooks on the front to hang your Weber grill tools, a shelf on the bottom for storage of accessories, a cable holder on the bottom to storage your extension cable and the removable side table making it more compact for storage. The only part of the cart which feels a bit flimsy are the wheels. They are entirely plastic and rattle around a bit when you move the cart, I feel like they would have felt a bit more like the rest of the BBQ if the hub was steel and perhaps incorporated a bearing or two.
The iGrill App
The Weber iGrill temperature monitoring system and app is the Pulse’s party trick and while you don’t have to use it to use the BBQ, it definitely helps with getting your meat cooked to your liking, even more so when you have people wanting their meat done differently, and it’s even better for larger roasts.
The system uses up to four connected temperature probes (two on the Pulse 1000) to monitor the internal temperature of the meat on the grill and can be set up against a range of presets for different meats and likings to ensure that each is cooked to perfection.
It is available for download for free from the App Store and on Google Play, making it compatible with the majority of smartphones.
The app automatically detects any nearby iGrill devices and after asking you to confirm your BBQ, it paired pretty quickly with mine. It then provides you with a temperature reading for the inside of your BBQ as well as a graph for each of your systems available probe inputs.
When you hit the start barbecuing button, you’ll need to choose between two options, one to set the desired internal temperature for your meat or another to select your meat’s “doneness” (as it calls it) which lets you choose your type and cut of meat, how well you like it done and then automatically sets the desired internal temperature.
It seems to be pretty comprehensive for meat, allowing you to choose from an extensive range of cuts for red meat, pork, poultry, lamb and fish. There aren’t any vegetarian options, and while I’m not really one for throwing veggies onto the grill, there certainly would have been some opportunity to put commonly grilled veggies onto the list, things like sweet potato, butternut, corn etc. could have been a nice addition.
You can set up different meats, cuts or temperatures for each probe and they’ll be loaded into the temperature screen which then allows you to monitor the cooking process for each individually. You’ll get alerts through the app, even if your phone is locked, which notify you when your meat is almost done and then again when it is done, for each probe.
You can also just view the BBQ and probe temperatures without setting up any alerts.
Some other features of the iGrill app include customisable timers and alerts, grill advice and recipes and a full log (history) of your previous grill sessions.
How Well Can You Cook A Steak?
So now it’s time to try it out and see whether the BBQ can produce the wonderful smoky flavour that comes from cooking over traditional coals or gas and whether the iGrill app can help us to cook it to our liking.
To start off, you’ll need to plug the grill in and power it up by pushing the power button on the side of the control panel. The panel beeps and then displays the internal temperature of the BBQ.
We then turned the two control dials to maximum and closed the lid to allow the grill to preheat, recommended in the Pulse manual and on all of Weber’s other BBQs we’ve used. You’ll want to preheat to at least 260°C (500°F) but we wanted to get it extra hot for steak and ensure that the meat doesn’t stick to the grill.
We stuck a temperature probe into one of the steaks as they were both similar sizes, thicknesses and we both like our steak done a little over rare.
Once our grill had been preheated, I placed the steaks onto the grill above the now glowing elements, lightly seasoned them and closed the lid to trap the smoke and give the meat an extra smoky flavour. Weber recommends keeping the lid closed while grilling to keep the heat in and to develop a more full-bodied flavour.
While the 2200W element is more than adequate to get your BBQ hot and steak sizzling, the temperature does drop off quite quickly if there is any wind blowing over it. Just something to keep in mind if you’ve got a full grill and you find yourself turning meat quite often.
After just under a minute, the steak was halfway to its target temperature, so I decided to flip them over.
The hot cast-iron grill had left perfect caramelised grill lines on the steak and they came off the grill effortlessly, no sticking at all.
After another 30 seconds or so my phone buzzed and the Pulse’s Control Panel beeped to tell me that probe one had reach its target temperature and that my steak was done. I left them on for a couple more seconds to get them a little over rare.
You can see on the temperature graph that the temperature stabilised and even dropped off slightly when I turned the steak over.
The steaks certainly looked good off the grill, let’s see what they look like inside.
The steak was impressively well cooked, especially for its thickness. It’s quite difficult to get a really thin or really thick cut of meat cooked perfectly and this was as close to perfection as you could get and literally spent less than two minutes cooking.
The taste was also great. The smoky flavour is definitely not as fully developed as you’d get from cooking over coals but it’s definitely comparable to gas and far better than any steak I’ve had out of a pan or skillet.
Cleaning Up Afterwards
The Weber has really been well designed when it comes to cleaning. The grill is made in two halves, making it really easy to clean in a smaller apartment sink or even to put into the dishwasher. There is also a standard drip tray underneath the main body with a throw away foil tray. You’ll want to give your Pulse a wipe down with a damp cloth once it’s cool and that’s it for your everyday cleaning.
To give your Weber Pulse a deeper clean, the element is removable with a single screw, and this allows you to remove the entire aluminium heat deflector to give it a proper scrub, use some of Webers BBQ Cleaner as a proper de-greaser to make it easier to clean. The one in the lid is also removable with four screws.
The front control panel simply slides out again and can be stored inside if you don’t have a cover for your BBQ and are worried about it getting wet.
Available Accessories
As with most of Weber’s other BBQs, they have a wide range of accessories to assist you in cooking, cleaning and expanding on the versatility of your BBQ.
The most obvious ones are probably the fitted cover which protects your grill and cart from the sun and rain as well as the grilling tools and grill cleaning brush.
The Pulse 1000 comes with a single temperature probe and two inputs, the Pulse 2000 comes with two probes and four inputs, so you’ll probably want to get an extra probe or two down the line. I’d also imagine that they may eventually break. Don’t get me wrong, they are well made and the lead is fairly well protected with a breaded steel outer sheath but the weak points are always the connections between the lead and the plug or probe itself which eventually fail.
They also sell a range of cleaning products, a pizza stone to make your favourite pizza in your Pulse and a rotisserie attachment similar to the ones available for the Baby Q range.
Final Say – Should You Get One?
If you live in an apartment or a heavily regulated area then this is definitely a BBQ to consider getting. Like any Weber product, it is good quality and really well made, it’s also easy to use and clean and because there isn’t any actual fire used for cooking, it’s a really safe option as well.
The biggest reason not to get the Pulse is the price. While it is well made and will probably last for a number of years, you’ll still have to part with between $500 and $1000 to get one, depending on the model and accessories you choose to get and there are definitely some better gas and coal options for this price range.
But if you’re prohibited from using coal fires or you don’t want the hassle of carrying, storing and exchanging gas bottles then the Weber Pulse is a fantastic all electric option which yields cooking results as good as gas without any of the hassles or safety concerns.
Have you tried cooking on a Weber Pulse? Let us know in the comments section below, we’d love to hear your experiences, tips and tricks.