Simple Arduino Home Energy Meter


I was walking through the hardware store the other day and I walked past an energy meter which clips onto your home’s electricity mains and then provides you with information on your power consumption and cost estimates for the month. I thought it looked really cool until I saw the price, it was almost five times what I thought it would be! So I decided to try and build my own and Arduino was the perfect platform for it.

I had a look around online at what others had done but they all seemed to be a bit over complicated for a simple home application. Sure, for perfectly accurate measurements you need to monitor both the supply voltage and current but for simple household monitoring which gives estimates cost to the closest few cents, why not keep things simple.

So this meter measures the supply current to your home through a CT (current transformer) and then does a couple of calculations to give you your current, power, maximum power and kilowatt hours consumed. Its also really easy to add your local tariff and display the cost of electricity used to date.

Update: Follow this guide is if you are wanting to build a 3 phase energy meter.

This project assumes you know the basics of Arduino programming, otherwise read our article on getting started with Arduino, and that you know how to connect an LCD screen to an Arduino.

What You Will Need For A Home Energy Meter

How To Make The Energy Meter

First you need to start by assembling the components onto the CT or onto your breadboard in order to create your current sensor which produces a signal which your Arduino can understand. An Arduino only has analogue voltage inputs which measure 0-5V DC, so you need to convert the current output from the CT into a voltage reference and then scale the voltage reference into a 0-5V range.

Assemble the Components

If you are going to be installing your power meter somewhere permanently then you may want to solder the resistors and capacitor directly onto the CT so that they cannot come loose. If you are simply trying this project for fun then a breadboard is perfect.

The basic circuit for the connection of the CT to the Arduino is shown below:


The LCD screen shield already picks up on the analogue inputs but only A0 is used by the shield. Simply solder the three leads from your current sensor onto the pin headers on the shield and use A1 as your sensor input as shown below.


Once you have connected all of your components, you need to connect your sensor onto what you want to monitor. If you are wanting to monitor a couple of appliances then you should connect the CT onto the input lead of a multi-plug, anything you plug into the multi-plug with then be counted.

Alternately, you can connect the CT directly onto your home’s mains supply and monitor the whole houses usage as has been done here. Either way, you need to put the CT around one of the supply cables, preferably the red “live” cable. Be sure to only put it around 1 as it will not work if it is around both and it can’t be connected around the earth wire (yellow, green stripped wire) as energy is not drawn through this wire. If you are connecting it to your mains, connect it to one of the output wires after the main breaker as shown below.


NB – Be careful when connecting the power meter to you homes mains and make sure that the power to your board is switched off before doing anything in the mains box. Do not remove any wires or remove any screws before checking with your local authority, you may require a certified electrician to install the CT for you.

Choosing Different Components

There are essentially four components which need to be chosen or correctly sized for you energy meter.

Choosing A Current Transformer

The first is the CT or current transformer. The one used here is the Talema AC1030 which can sense 30A nominal and 75A maximum current. At 220VAC, it can theoretically sense up to 16.5kW for short periods of time but it is sized to continuously sense 6.6kW which is suitable for a small household. To calculate how many amps yours needs to sense, take the maximum  continuous power your are expecting to sense and divide that by your voltage (usually 110V or 220V depending on your country).

Sizing The Burden Resistor

Next you need to size your burden resistor R3, this converts your CT current into a voltage reference. Start by dividing your primary current (the maximum as used above) by your CT’s turns ratio (available on the data sheet). This should be around 500-5000 to 1. This article worked on 42A with a turns ratio 0f 1000:1 giving a secondary current of 0.042A or 42mA. Your analogue reference voltage to the Arduino is 2.5V so to determine the resistance you use R=V/I  – R=2.5/0.042=59.5Ω. The closest standard resistor value is 56Ω, so this was used.

Here are some options on different CTs and their ideal burden resistors (in standard sizes):

  • Murata 56050C – 10A – 50:1 – 13Ω
  • Talema AS-103 – 15A – 300:1 – 51Ω
  • Talema AC-1020 – 20A – 1000:1 – 130Ω
  • Alttec L01-6215 – 30A – 1000:1 – 82Ω
  • Alttec L01-6216 – 40A – 1000:1 – 62Ω
  • Talema ACX-1050 – 50A – 2500:1 – 130Ω
  • Alttec L01-6218 – 60A – 1000:1 – 43Ω
  • Talema AC-1060 – 60A – 1000:1 – 43Ω
  • Alttec L01-6219 – 75A – 1000:1 – 33Ω
  • Alttec L01-6221 – 150A – 1000:1 – 18Ω
  • CTYRZCH SCT-013-000 – 100A – Built In Burden Resistor – Buy Here
  • TOOGOO SCT-013-000 – 100A – Buy Here

The capacitor used is 10µF which should be sufficient for most CT ranges for household applications.

Finally you need two dividing resistors to get the 2.5V reference voltage from the Arduino. They must be the same value, so R1=R2 and we don’t need much current so this articles uses two 100K resistors.

Upload the Sketch

Now you can upload your sketch onto your Arduino, if you haven’t uploaded a sketch before then follow this guide on getting started.

Update – The code has since been modified to make use of the millis() function, see end of section for updated code.

Here is the link to download the Meter code.

Because your setup, CT , resistors and input voltage may be different, there is a scaling factor in the sketch which you will need to change before you will get accurate results, see below for calibration. If your LCD is connected to the same pins as used here and your CT is connected to the same input pin, you should at least get the screen populated with some figures although these will most likely be incorrect and some may be negative.

If you don’t want to use or don’t have an LCD screen, you can also modify the sketch to output to the Arduino IDE’s serial window as shown below.

Here is the link to download the Meter Serial Output code.

Code Update

The original Energy Meter code made use of a fixed time period for calculating the kilowatt hours consumed, this was based on a 2050ms cycle time and was fairly accurate.

The code has since been modified to make use of the built in millis() function which calculates the exact cycle time for each cycle in order to improve the accuracy. It only makes around a half a percent improvement in the accuracy of the calculation but its the better way to do it.

Here is the improved code:

Here is the link to download the updated Millis Meter code.

For those of you who have read that the millis() function goes into overflow after about 49 days, the code deals with the rollover automatically by making use of the unsigned long variable. For example, if the overflow happens at 10000, the start millis was 9987 and the end millis was 2031, the difference would be 2031-9987=-7956 but the value can’t be negative as it is unsigned so it becomes -7956+10000=2044 which is the correct duration.

Calibrate the Current Reading

As mentioned above, because your setup, CT , resistors and input voltage may be different, there is a scaling factor in the sketch which you will need to change before you will get accurate results.

To calibrate your energy meter, your need to be sure that the current that your meter says is being drawn is what you expect is actually being drawn. In order to do this accurately, you need to find a calibrated load. These are not easy to come by in a normal household so you will need to find something which uses an established and consistent amount of power. I used a couple of incandescent light bulbs and spot lights, these come in a range of sizes and their consumption is fairly close to what is stated on the label, ie a 100W light bulb uses very close to 100W of real power as it is almost entirely a purely resistive load.

Plug in a small light bulb (100W or so) and see what load is displayed. You will now need to adjust the scaling factor uses in the calculation line:

double RMSCurrent = ((maxCurrent – 516)*0.707)/11.8337

In this case it was 11.8337, it may be higher or lower depending on your application. Either use linear scaling to calculate this figure or, if you’re not good with math, play around with different values until the load you have plugged in is shown on the energy meter’s screen.

Once you have your energy meter calibrated, you reset it and leave it to do its job. Below are two images of it in use, both with a low power input and a high power input.


The first number displayed is the instantaneous current followed by the instantaneous power. On the bottom line, the kilowatt hours used since reset and then the maximum recorded power since reset.


And a video of startup:

Autodesk Circuits Diagram & Simulator

Please note that Autodesk Circuits doesn’t support a current transformer. A signal generator has therefore been used to generate an example signal however it is not really suitable for the application, therefore the displayed energy consumption is erratic.

How did this project go for you? What have you used it to monitor? Let us know in the comments section below, we may even put some of your work into our article to help others. Also feel free to post any questions or queries you may have, if you are asking, chances are someone else is wondering as well.


  1. Dani

    Great article!!! You have writing talent.

    Where did you buy your Current Sense Transformers (CT)?

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Dani,
      Thank you. I picked up the CT from a local electronics supplier. They are available on eBay, probably Radio Shack as well. There are a number of online suppliers around.

  2. Richard Westhed

    Good work! Thanks.

    I tried this but extended it with 2 extra CTs, one for all three phases. I do not know why, but all three give me exact same values and they do not change a bit. So, I figure this has to do with the “if (maxCurrent <= 517) maxCurrent=516". Were does this number 516 come from? (Surely a dum question to you… 🙂 ).

    Best regards Richard

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Richard,
      Great to hear you’ve tried this out on a three phase installation.
      You essentially need to triplicate lines 22 to 42, or run a loop three times (one for each phase). Make sure that you change line 27 where you read the analogue input to currentPin1, currentPin2 and currentPin3 so that the Arduino is reading inputs from the three different CT’s. Unless your code is overwriting variables incorrectly you should always land up with different figures for each phase this way.
      To answer your question, we are only looking at the top half of each phases sine wave. The Arduino’s analogue map function maps from 0 to 1024. 512 is therefore the middle/zero line of the sine wave in an ideal environment, in my case 516 was the “calibrated” zero line. The line of code you mention is simply throwing out the negative half of the sine wave so it is unlikely to be giving you problems.
      If you still run into problems, email your code through to me: admin(at) and I’ll have a look at it.
      Hope this helps!
      Best Regards

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Richard,

      I have just published a guide on how to make a 3 phase energy meter – go have a look at it

      Hope it helps!

  3. Mike


    Thank you for your article. It has been very helpful to me.
    I have a couple of novice questions.
    I had started building an energy monitor based on what I had read on
    I am using an Arduino Uno Rev 2, and four SCT-013-030 CTs. My main goal is to calculate kw used by my heat pump (Condenser, AHU and heat strips) and my hot water tank.
    I stumbled onto your project and I have been using your Arduino sketch, because you have the kwh calculated.
    I have yet to do calibration on the kwh, but I did adjust to get the current fairly accurate.
    I can’t figure out what the 2.05 is on line 43. Can you explain to me how you are coming up with kwh?
    How are you calculating kw measured over time?


    • The DIY Life

      Hi Mike,

      Great, thank you. It’s always good to see people are trying this project out. It sounds like you are doing quite a nice adaptation by monitoring multiple appliances/devices.

      To calculate the kilowatt hours, you multiply your amp reading by the supply voltage and then by the time period converted into hours, that will be watt hours and then divide by 1000 to get kilowatt hours.

      The line in the code you are referring to is doing the unit conversions, from seconds to hours and into kilowatts, as described above and the 2.05 is the time period (in seconds) I am referring to. The delay in the code is 2000 milliseconds and the loop through the code takes the Arduino about 50 milliseconds to run through so the time period is 2050 milliseconds or 2.05 seconds.

      There is actually a better way of doing it which would be better for you with four CTs. Using the millis function, record the start millis and finish millis, calculate the difference and that is your time period. It’s more accurate but I just haven’t had the time to change it in the code.

      Hope this helps, let us know how it goes!

  4. Marius

    Firstly id like to say Great write up
    Been looking for someone to explain as good as you did for a few months now 🙂
    Hi just a silly question
    what voltage must the 10uf capasitor be?


    • The DIY Life

      Hi Marius,

      Thank you, happy to hear we could help. The capacitor only sees around 2.5V so you can use a small 10V capacitor.

      Best regards.

  5. Marius


    I have managed to put it together using a 33ohm burden resistor because i have the sct-013-010 current transformer and saw that i must use a 33 ohm burden dont know if this is correct

    I also used the R1 and R2 100k resistors and getting some values back .. so happy with that
    But my question now is this sound correct?
    I have also tried now running a small heater with 2000w but the numbers goes up and down and i really dont know what to do from here
    is there anything i am doing wrong? or am i doing everything wrong
    Just trying to figure this out and get it solved lol

    Thanks again

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Marius,

      From what I can tell, there are two possible reasons you are getting fluctuating values:
      The first is the CT, the sct-013-010 has a built in burden resistor so you should remove your burden resistor and connect the one wire from the CT to Arduino A1 and the second to the middle of your two 100K divider resistors.
      The second depends on your location and local supply voltage. If you live in the USA then the supply voltage is 110VAC, your CT can only measure up to 10A so (very simplistically) you can’t measure any device which uses more than 110×10=1100w. You will burn your CT and its burden resistor out. If you live in a 220VAC area then you should be able to measure 2200w so you won’t have a problem with your heater.

      Hopefully this helps. We were all there once so keep trying and you’ll come right!

  6. Marius

    I tested it today again and seems alot better only thing now is the calibration could you perhaps explain the calibration for me i am in a 220vac area
    If i start say the heater it shows a 6000w out and if i then stop that and start a laptop charger it still give me the 6000w

    I am not sure as what to change here “double RMSCurrent = ((maxCurrent – 516)*0.707)/11.8337;”
    Oh Forgot to mention that my CT i the SCT 013-000 the 100a max and 50ma

    It feels so close now but yet so far 🙂

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Marius,

      There seems to be a problem with your input, a laptop charger and a heater should give you substantially different figures. If you plug something of low power in does the 6000W drop? Does it drop down when you unplug the heater?

      If your sensor is the SCT 013-000, then it is a current output sensor and it will indeed need a burden resistor. The ideal burden resistor size would be R=2.5/0.05=50Ω, you’ll have to use a 51Ω or 56Ω standard resistor. This is probably the reason for the above reading of 6000W, you are overloading the Arduino input.

      The scaling figure in the line you are looking at is the 11.8337. If you are plugging a 2000W heater in and it is displaying 6000w then you need to divide the figure by three (6000/3=2000), so you’ll put 3.9445 into the line instead of 11.8337. Your display should now show 2000W.

      You’re almost there!

      • Marius


        I eventually got it working Yay
        I realized that it did not want to work on my breadboard so i made a pcb and soldiered everything an and bobs your uncle all working

        Now for the display i have the IIC / I2C 1602 lcd and it needs the 5v on the arduino
        Do you suggest i reconfiggure the code to use the 3.3v for the energy monitor and the 5v output for the lcd?

        Or is there another way?

        I saw when using the 3.3v with the lcd the contrast is verry light can hardly see anything on the lcd

        And thanks again for all your help would not have been able to do without your help

        • The DIY Life

          Hi Marius,

          That’s great, well done!

          To connect the LCD screen, have a look at our LCD screen connection guide, it should work for your display. You don’t have to reconfigure anything in the code, there is no reason why you can’t connect both the LCD and the energy meter to the Arduino’s 5V pin. The screen should still work on the 3.3V pin, the backlight will just be dim. The contrast issue you are referring to can be adjusted by turning the pot outlined in our guide, this adjusts the contrast. By default the contrast will be extremely light.

          No problem at all, we’re glad you’ve managed to build one of our projects!

  7. Marius


    I have managed to get the project fully working with the LCD and it is really awsome
    The last thing id like to ask is how do i set it up for 3 Fase do i replicate the setup x 3 and replicate the code 3 times and add the 3 together?
    I dont know anything about 3 fase :p
    Thanks again

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Marius,
      That’s great! Could you possibly send us a photo to put up?
      Yes, for a 3 phase setup you just replicate the CT circuit 3 times and then triplicate the current measurement lines of code. You’ll need to add to the display as well, possibly edit the layout to show all three kWh on one screen and the powers on the next?

      • Marius


        I will indeed mail you a pic once i am completely done with the project it does not look too good at the moment with wires everywhere …hahah

        regarding the 3 phase can i connect all 3 ct’s on the 5V input on the arduino with the lcd?
        and do i connect the ct’s on each analog port ex A1, A2 , A2 ?

        Just want to make sure before i blow something up :p


        • The DIY Life

          Hi Marius,
          Great, thank you.
          Yes, you can connect all of the CTs to the 5V output. The CTs just use the voltage as a reference, the circuit draws very little power from the Arduino.
          Yes, connect each CT to it’s own Arduino analog input A1, A2 and A3 and then modify the code to take readings from the three different inputs.

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Marius,

      I’ve just published a guide to make a 3 phase energy meter, have a look at it –

      Hope it helps!

  8. This is indeed a great article. I was able to construct the meter based on your instructions to measure the energy use at a remote cottage we have. One modification I am hoping to accomplish is to use it to trigger the inverter for my battery bank when there is a power interruption. I was able to build the circuit with a relay that will get triggered once the monitor indicates no power. I am stuck though on how to pass the parameters from your program to the subroutine that would trigger the relay to switch the inverter and have the screen to say”Now running from batteries.” This “loop” would have to be active as long as there is no power. I tried to use IF and WHILE functions but couldn’t get it working (it’s been a while since I have worked in C). Could you give me a suggestion on what is the best way to achieve that task?

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Pawel,

      Thank you and its great to hear that you’ve managed to build the energy meter.

      The problem I can see with what you are trying to achieve is not with the code but with the actual hardware and the operation of the CT. You won’t have a problem triggering the relay to turn on the inverter when the monitor indicates no power. Once the relay is triggered however, you will be switching your home’s load onto the inverter and this means that even if your home’s mains comes back on, the load will still be on the inverter so there will be no “flow” of electricity through the mains CT and therefore your energy monitor won’t know that the power has come back on.

      My suggestion would be to put a small AC relay directly onto your mains with one of the normally open contacts supplying the Arduino’s 5V circuit back to an input pin. This input would then always give you a reliable “mains on” or “mains off” signal regardless of the current through the CT and this could then be used to change the display and trigger the inverter both on and off.

      Once you’ve got the hardware right, the WHILE loop is the correct thing to use to change to the inverter loop. Something like – WHILE (digitalRead(relayInput) == LOW) will run the inverter loop until the mains picks up again and the mains relay contacts the Arduinos 5V back onto its relayInput.

      If you put the CT in after the inverter and mains changeover relay you could even add a second screen to the energy monitor which tells you how much power has been used from the mains and how much has been used from the inverter.

      I hope I am on the right track with what you are trying to achieve!

      • Thanks for a quick reply. Actually the inverter we have (WAGAN Tech 3000) works independently from the main power line. Unlike the more advanced grid inverters, we have to physically flip a remote button to turn it on when the power goes down and click it again to turn it OFF when it is back. So the CT will actually detect that there is “juice’ back in the supply lines. In order to make sure that the monitor/switch can can run off the 12V battery power when the power is down I have added a small DC to DC power supply to the circuit.
        My programming problem was with the WHILE loop, as I wasn’t sure how to get the information about the amount of current flowing in the main supply line to a subroutine/function that would evaluate that there is no power and activate the inverter switch relay. Can it be done?

        • The DIY Life

          Ok great, you should definitely be able to do the change with the energy meter but it’s a bit more involved than you might initially think.

          When the power dies at your home and you turn on your inverter, what isolates the inverter circuit from the mains circuit so that you are not feeding power back into the grid and to your neighbours homes for example?

          I still see a problem in the way you need the CT to detect “juice” back in the supply line. If you’ve changed all of your electrical demand onto your inverter, there will be nothing to draw power from the mains when the power does come back on. The CT doesn’t measure if there power available, it can only measuring power flowing through it. With nothing trying to draw power from the mains, the CT will still register no reading even when the mains comes back on. You need something which will continuously be trying to draw power from the mains (a light bulb for example) so that when it comes back on, the CT starts reading energy usage and can then turn the inverter off and change the supply back to the mains.

          Once your code has detected no current, use a WHILE (maxCurrent == 516) loop to keep checking that the current is still 0. Put lines 25 to 36 of the original code into the loop to keep reading the current with a delay of say 1 second – delay(1000) between checks. The value of 516 is the middle of the current waveform and hence 0 current.

          There’s no reason why that shouldn’t work to turn the inverter on and off, now you’ll just have to manage how you switch between the mains supply and inverter supply, this can also be automated by the Arduino.

          • Thanks for your suggestions Michael. I was able to figure it out based on your recommendation. I had to add an extra line to the WHILE loop (if (maxCurrent > 517) break;) to break out of the loop.

            while (maxCurrent == 516)

            int current = 0;
            int maxCurrent = 0;
            int minCurrent = 1000;

            for (int i=0 ; i= maxCurrent)
            maxCurrent = current;
            else if(current <= minCurrent)
            minCurrent = current;
            if (maxCurrent 517) break;

            if(current >= maxCurrent)
            maxCurrent = current;

            To answer your last comments: the system we have already has an automatic line disconnect by POWERMAX, which switches from the line power to battery power. Unfortunately it does not have a low voltage relay in it to turn the inverter on and off. My original idea was to add one to it but I hate mucking around with high voltage. That’s why I was interested in your meter. Other than disconnecting and reconnecting two panel feeds it involves only low currents and as an added bonus we will know how much power we are using when the emergency system is on. Thanks again!

          • The DIY Life

            That’s great, let me know if you manage to get it all working!

  9. Kevin A.

    Good day,

    First of all, this was a really great article and the best one yet for similar projects that me and my colleagues have found. We were actually looking for projects like this to integrate into our own project. I was wondering if it is possible to use your project for any devices such as air conditioning units, refrigerators, etc? Also, can you recommend any cheap clamp on CTs? Or some other way to utilize the through hole CT for the wires without modifying the device itself? Modifying as in cutting the wire or removing the plug to insert the CT.

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Kevin,

      Thank you for the great feedback. It depends what you are wanting to achieve with the energy meter and how modern the AC or refrigerator is. More modern ones tend to have better power factors and will work better with this energy meter. Older ones, especially refrigerators have really bad power factors so the reading won’t be that accurate.

      As far as decent and reasonably priced clip on CT’s, your best bet is with the SCT013 range. They are reliable and some versions come with the burden resistor built in already. You can’t really modify a CT to get it over the wire, you’ll need to loosen the wire at the terminal and thread the CT through if it is not a split type.

  10. mico

    do you use a current sensor here an acs712??

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Mico,

      The acs712 is a hall effect transducer, so it works a bit differently and the sensor requires a hard wired, in line connection to the load which is what I was trying to avoid with this. The connections to the Arduino are the same without the resistors and capacitor 1, one connection to Gnd, one to 5V and one to analogue. The code is also fairly similar.

  11. karthi

    bro i have problem when i upload the code to arduino
    i get response like 0.00kwh
    but current is calculated but the kwh finding not working
    kilos = kilos + (RMSPower * (time/60/60/1000000)); this line get zeroed after execution
    plz help

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Karthi,

      Are all of the other three fields on your display showing the correct values?

      Remember that there is a time delay on the kWh and this field will take some time to start increasing depending on your load. For example, if you’re drawing 200W, its going to take about 3 minutes for 0.01kWh to show up on the display.

      If this still does not work then try the first version of the code and see if that works on your energy meter? It’s a bit simpler and has been tested by far more people.

      Let me know if you come right.

      • Anonymous

        thanks lot

      • karthi

        thank you for your reply
        the first code work properly it display the correct value
        but the 2nd code only kwh line zeroed power=200w
        time value 2050; and (time/60/60/1000000))= 5.69444444e-7* power
        after serial print show zero kwh iam waited for 30 minutes it show only zero

        • The DIY Life

          Hi Karthi,

          Thank you for the feedback. There may be a problem with the way the Arduino handles the different data types, being int, double and unsigned long.

          Try this line: kilos = kilos + ((double)RMSPower * ((double)time/60/60/1000000));

          Let me know if that works otherwise I’ll have a look at it in more detail.

  12. mico

    hi, what do you mean for “RMS”current andd “RMS”power

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Mico,
      RMS is the root mean square. RMS current is the peak current multiplied by 0.7071 or divided by the square root of 2. RMS power is the apparent power or VA in this case.

  13. mico

    hi sir.. in this project i used ACS712 instead of CT and i havnt change any codes i till follow what input their .. and when i runned it the peak power and RMSpower are the same out put which is 6663W.. i use a 9v battery as well as an LED light.. to test it it apperas 6663w both the peakpower and RMSpower and 30.29A in RMScurrent and yet i runned it for almost 1 hr then their is no changes in kWh..
    can you please help to figure this out..
    Thanks sir..

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Mico,
      I am not too familiar with the ACS712 but it appears to be a scaled Hall effect sensor. It gives you a scaled voltage output proportional to the input voltage so there is no need for the voltage divider, burden resistor or the capacitor, you can connect it directly to the Arduino and the zero line of the sine wave should be Vcc/2.

      Your second problem is that a 9V battery and an LED light are DC, this software is written to measure AC power. To calculate DC power you can simply multiply the measured battery voltage by the measured current through the ACS712.

      Lastly, the voltage you are using seems high for an LED but assuming its a large LED and the voltage is correct, it would likely only draw around 20-40mA. A kilowatt hour is a huge unit of measurement for an LED, you’d have to leave the LED connected for around 28 hours to register 0.01kWh. Rather consider using watt hours or more commonly amp hours for small DC circuits.

  14. tesla

    Cool project

  15. Alay

    hey it’s a amazing work you guys really awesome i just want to know i’m from India and here we have 50hz 10amp 230v in regular home supply so AS-103 is good for me or AC -1030 is good

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Alay,
      Thanks for the positive feedback! If you maximum current is 10A then use the AS-103, you’ll get better resolution. The AC-1030 will also work but it is quite a bit bigger than you need for your supply.

  16. MICO

    hi sir can ask how do you get this "maxCurrent <= 517" and "maxCurrent = 516;" wer did you get this and what formula did you use??
    in my case i use SCT-013 100A:0.05

    (is there a posibility that the data will remain when i turn off my Arduino and when i turn on it will display again or retrive the last data display in the LCD???

    and why is it when i remove the CT or turn off the load there is a continous reading in my Arduino ??
    please help me for my concern .. thank you..

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Mico,

      The figure maxCurrent = 516 is used to filter out only the top half of the sine wave. In my case, just under 516 happens to be the zero line of the sine wave. If you’ve used the correct divider resistors yours should be similar.

      The Arduino doesn’t permanently store any variable data, if you turn it off then you loose all your recorded data. To store the data you’ll need to use an SD card shield or provide a battery backed up power source so that the Arduino never loses power.

      If you’re getting a reading with your CT removed then you haven’t set your calibration factors correctly. I suspect that your circuit isn’t giving you a sine wave zero line at 516, therefore it is “reading current” even though nothing is connected. Try adjust 516 upwards until you get zero when the CT is removed. Note that only the CT should be removed, not the capacitor and burden resistors.

      Hope this helps.

  17. MICO

    okay thank you for the help sir.. what if am going to use sim900a is their a posibility that the flow of current will affect .. in may case when i use the sim900a is connected with the breadboard where the capacitor, resistors and CT pinned there is a change in displaying or sensing current in my LCD

  18. Rikky

    Hi Sir

    I am using Talema 1060 Current transformer instead of 1030.
    Burden resistor = 39ohm.
    What should be the calibration factor so that I can get accurate power for different loads.

    I tried to calibrate using 100wt load and got the correct result but when i changed the load (200wt) didn’t get correct output.Please Suggest me the proper way to calibrate this CT.

    • The DIY Life

      Hi Rikky,

      Your burden resistor is fine although it is slightly undersized, you should probably go with a 43Ω resistor just to make sure you don’t overload the CT when you are working at its upper limit (around 60A). If you aren’t really measuring anything close to 60A then its not a problem and 39Ω is fine.

      The calibration factor cannot be calculated beforehand, it depends on a number of factors and is different for each setup. The only easy way to calibrate it is to take readings from the screen for a few known loads (it appears that you have done this) and then calculate the calibration factor using a linear best fit. What are you using as your 100W and 200W loads, how accurate are they? What did you get for the 200W load?

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