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Make Your Own Soy Candles

Michael Klements
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Make Your Own Soy Candles

Soy candles have a few benefits over paraffin wax candles, one being that they burn longer than other types of wax. Store bought candles can be quite expensive so why not make your own? They are easy to make, they can be fragranced or colored to your preference and they make the perfect gift. Soy wax turns into an oil when it is warmed which can be used as an aromatic massage oil.

Things You Will Need:

  • Glass Jars For Completed Candles
  • Soy Wax (500g Will Make About 3 Candles)
  • Essential Oil (To Fragrance)
  • Candle Wicks (Braided String Soaked In Wax)
  • Kebab Sticks
  • Sticky Tape
  • Old Pot or Tin For Melting Wax

wick jars

First start by preparing the wicks in the jars. Use the tape to stick a small tab of the wick to the bottom of the jar, this will keep it in place while you pour in the wax. Ensure that the wick is vertical and centered before tying it off on a kebab stick placed over the top of the jar. The kebab stick will keep the wick vertical and centered when the warm wax is added.

melting wax

Once you have the jars prepared you can being melting the wax. Break the wax into smaller chucks or shavings and heat it in a double boiler over the stove, this should take about 15 minutes. A double boiler is simply a smaller metal boil or jug placed into a pot of boiling water, this ensures that the wax is never in direct contact with the heat of the stove and can’t burn.

Once the wax is completely melted, you may add the essential oil, add 5 to 10ml depending on the strength of the oil. Here are some commonly used oils, all of which are on our free Soy Candle Printable: Cinnamon, Orange, Lemon, Peppermint, Palmarosa, Lavender, Rosewood, Ylang Ylang & Citronella.

To colour the wax simply add a wax crayon (with the paper label removed) to the melting pot and stir it in with the soy wax.

wax poured

Now pour the melted wax into the jars. Fill the jars to about 3cm from the top and then allow them to harden. The wax should be fully hardened in about 8 hours. Once the wax has hardened, trim the wicks with a sharp scissors to 1cm from the surface of the wax. Decorate the jar with a ribbon or your own custom label.

What are your experiences with this project? Please share your comments, tips and advice with us in the comments section below, we would love to hear from you.

Drill Holes In Tiles

Michael Klements
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Drill Holes In Tiles

When installing new fittings, mirrors, lights or pipes in the kitchen or bathroom, there often is a need to drill holes through tiles. Special care and the correct equipment needs to be used to drill through tiles so that you do not crack them.

What you will need:

  • Electric Drill or Combination Driver (Hammer Action Turned Off)
  • Glass Drill Bit or Diamond Tip Hole Saw
  • Masking Tape (For Glass Drill Bit)

bosch pipe finder

When drilling into the walls in bathrooms and kitchens, it is always a good idea to know what you may be drilling into. There is a multitude of electrical lines, water supply pipes and water drain pipes running vertically and horizontally in the walls. It is best to use an electronic detector to look for electrical conduit and metal pipework running in the walls to avoid an expensive repair.

Secondly you need to check whether the tile has been laid correctly. Often wall tiles are laid incorrectly on an inadequate bed of adhesive or they are only laid with dollops of adhesive in the corners. Tap around on the tile you are going to be drilling into. If there is a hollow sound anywhere, this indicates that there is no adhesive behind the tile in this area and it is not advisable to drill through the tile as it will most likely crack. If you have no option but to drill through the tile then do so with very little pressure on the drill bit, any excessive stress on a badly laid tile will cause it to crack.

Lastly you need to choose the correct type and size drill bit. Glass and tile drill bits usually come in sizes from 2mm up to 10mm (1/8″ to 1/2″) but rarely larger than this. For larger holes such as a hole for a copper pipe, you will need to use a diamond tip hole saw which usually come in sizes from 4mm to 50mm (1/4″ to 2 1/2″). For additional drill bit types, see this guide.

Drilling Using Tile Drill Bits

When using a tile drill bit, place a piece of masking tape in the area you are going to be drilling and then mark the point on the masking tape. The marking tape helps to keep the drill bit from wandering when you start drilling. Begin drilling on a low speed until the bit has broken through the glaze. Once the drill bit is through the glaze you can drill through the ceramic base at a higher speed. Once through the ceramic base, you may need to switch drill bits to a masonry bit of a size smaller than the hole through the tile to drill through brick and cement walls for a masonry wall plug installation. Here is a guide to installing screws in a masonry wall to complete your installation of a bathroom fitting, mirror or shelf.

Drilling Using A Hole Saw

When using a diamond tipped hole saw, mark the tile where you are going to be drilling. With the drill on a high speed, angle the diamond tip bit so that the bottom section of the drill bit surface touches the tile first. Hold the drill firmly and apply pressure until the hole saw begins to cut away the glazing. Now straighten the drill and continue drilling into the tile at a high speed. If you have thick ceramic tiles, it may be necessary to lubricate the drill bit in contact with the tile with water as you drill. This is easiest to do with water in a spray bottle. Spray directly into the contact area while you drill to keep the bit cool and from binding. Once you have drilled through the ceramic of the tile, pull the hole saw out of the hole and the cut out tile disk should come free. You may now need to switch to a masonry drill bit of a slightly smaller size than the hole through the tile to drill through the remainder of the brick or cement in the wall for the pipe.

Use a homemade dust collection bag under your drill bit, as shown here in order to limit the amount of cleaning up you have to do afterwards. Clean up the ceramic dust with a damp cloth, be careful as there may be sharp broken shards of tile glaze in the dust. It is advisable to wear suitable eye protection when drilling into any glass or glazed surface.

Installing Crown Molding

Michael Klements
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Installing Crown Molding

Installing crown molding or cornicing  is an easy an inexpensive way to drastically improve the appearance of a room and add value to your home. This is the perfect weekend project to upgrade a plain room into an elegant living space. Modern polystyrene molding is cheap, light and can simply be glued in place with molding adhesive or contractor’s acrylic. Alternatively, wood or plaster crown molding is also easy to install although it is a little heavier and usually requires nailing to install.

What You Will Need

  • Crown Molding or Cornicing (10% More Than The Perimeter You Need To Cover)
  • Molding Adhesive (1 Canister Usually Does About 10m)
  • Caulking Gun
  • Mitre Box
  • Craft Knife
  • White Acrylic Paint
  • Paint Brush

polystyrene cornicing

Start in a corner of the longest length of the room so that you get some practice installing the easier straight sections first. Cut the molding to fit the corner as per the instructions below. Now apply a continuous bead of adhesive to the top and bottom flat faces of the inside of the molding. Align the molding to the ceiling and wall joint and gently press it into place starting at the corner end and working your way across. Continue adhering straight sections one against the other until the next corner is reached.

corner cuts

The corners are the only tricky part and it is mainly due to the cutting angle. Fortunately, there is an easy way to beat frustration and get perfect corners every time. To cut molding for an inside or outside corner, the technique is similar. Place the molding in a mitre box with the wall side flat edge on the side of the box as it would be installed on the wall. Cut along the 45° angle line straight down. Polystyrene molding can be cut with a hand hacksaw, hot wire cutter or with a sharp craft knife. For wood molding, use an electric mitre saw or handheld mitre saw.

outside corner

For an inside corner, the top part of the molding will be the shorter side and for an outside corner, the bottom part of the molding will be the shorter side.

covering cables

Crown molding is also an ideal way to conceal cables. Run cables along the ceiling edge before installing the molding to hide them.

Once the trim is in place and the corners are complete, you will need to fill in any gaps with acrylic or crack filler. If you are using crack filler then slightly overfill the gaps so that when the filler is dry they can be sanded down to size. Allow the acrylic or crack filler to dry and then sand it down to a neat finish.

before and after

Once you have filled and sanded all of the gaps, the molding needs to be painted. Molding is usually painted white to match the ceiling but can also be painted to match the baseboards or as an accent. Paint the molding with a water based, solvent free paint which is polystyrene friendly. Spray paints and solvent based paints will eat into the polystyrene and damage the surface finished. Allow the first coat to dry and apply a second coat to get an even finish.

What are your experiences with this project? Please share your comments, tips and advice with us in the comments section below, we would love to hear from you.

 

Stain Wood Furniture

Michael Klements
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Stain Wood Furniture

Give your furniture a modern updated look by staining it a different colour or buy raw unfinished furniture and stain it yourself. Unfortunately you won’t save a large amount of money by staining furniture yourself but you can match existing furniture styles and colours and choose accent colours for a custom look.

What you will need for this project:

  • Stain (Enough For Your Item, Check The Product Coverage)
  • Sandpaper – 180, 220 and 260 grit
  • Sanding Block
  • Paint Brush
  • Optional – Screwdriver – For Dissambly
  • Optional – Water Based Polyurethane Top Coat

Most unfinished furniture stores sell pine furniture although meranti, oak and maple are also popular. If you are trying to match an existing piece of furniture then it is best to take the item (a chair or drawer) with to the shop so that they can give you advice on the wood type. Although pine can generally be stained to match different wood colours, the wood grain and absorption properties play a role in the appearance of the finished product.

completed stain

Once your have bought or found your items of furniture which you wish to stain, consider whether or not you need to take it apart. It is easiest to stain drawers separately when they are removed from the sliders. You will also need to remove pieces which you wish to stain a different colour to adjacent boards, for example the top surface of a drawer cabinet you may wish to stain darker than the rest of the cabinet. Masking tape prevents direct contact between the brush and the surface you do not wish to stain however stain may seep under the tape and the porous wood will absorb it causing streaks.

Now you will  need to sand the surfaces which are to be stained. This is best done by hand with a sanding block and a fine (180 to 240 grit) sandpaper. Sand out any rough areas and particularly those with dirt marks and scratches. If you are removing the existing paint or varnish from an item of furniture, consider using an orbital sander with a rough (120 grit) sandpaper to remove it. After using the orbital sander, use the sanding block and fine grit sand paper to get a smooth surface finish.

If you are planning on mixing stains to your preferred colour then mix more than you think you will need to complete the job. If you run out of stain midway through a section you will not be able to match the colour exactly and the colour difference will be noticeable.  Remember that stains usually darken when dried and absorb differently into different types of wood. To ensure that you will be happy with the finished product, consider testing the colour on a similarly finished sample of the same wood type. This way you can make adjustments to the colour without ruining your finished product.

Apply the stain to the wood. You can use a variety of brush stroke directions when applying the stain but be sure that the final brush strokes are always in the direction of the grain of the wood to get the smoothest finish. Apply the stain consistently on all faces of the wood to get an even colour. For darker colours, a second coat of stain may need to be applied however this should only be done once the first coat is well absorbed and dry.

For a gloss finish, consider applying a clear top coat. If the item of furniture is hard wearing or constantly going to be wiped down and cleaned then it may be necessary to protect the stained finish. A polyurethane top coat is probably the best solution and a water based coating is also environmentally friendly, fast drying and has a low odor. Brush the polyurethane onto the stained surface using a high quality soft bristle brush. Start at the edges and work your way to the center applying a thin and even coat. Avoid buildup on the edges by using short and light brush strokes towards the edges. The trick in getting a perfect glossy finish is to keep the work area clean, make sure that there are no airborne particles or dust which may settle on the surface and create imperfections.

Allow the surface finish to dry overnight before sanding with a fine (240 – 260 grit) sandpaper. Wipe the sanded surfaces down and then apply a second coat. For an even smoother finish, allow the second coat to dry overnight again before applying a final third coat.

What are your experiences with this project? Please share your comments, tips and advice with us in the comments section below, we would love to hear from you.

Unblock A Drain

Michael Klements
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Unblock A Drain

The most common drain to get blocked is the one in the kitchen sink, although the procedure is the same for any household drain. To unblock a toilet, see this guide. Food is often rinsed off of plates and cutlery and makes its way down the plug, causing a blockage.

The most common place for the blockage is in the u bend. The u bend is designed to trap a small amount of water to form an air tight barrier between the drain and the sink so that no nasty smells make their way into your home. Large or heavy solids don’t make their way around the u bend and instead get trapped. The first sign that your drain is blocking is that water in the sink starts taking longer to drain. It is best to act as soon as this occurs.

The first step is to try and plunge the plug hole. A rubber plunger (available at most hardware stores) is forced up and down rapidly over the sink hole which in turn causes the water in the u bend to move upwards and downwards, thereby dislodging any blockages.

If you don’t succeed with a plunger then you will have to remove the u bend. Make sure to have a bucket handy to catch the water which may run out of the sink or the pipework. A rubber u bend usually has two attachment points, on directly underneath the sink and one after the u which connect to a PVC drain pipe. Firstly undo the pipe clamp underneath the sink and pull the u bend off. Use the bucket to catch any water which may drain from the sink. Next remove the second pipe clamp and gently pull the u bend from the drain. The blockage is most likely in this section. Use a piece of wire to hook any debris and pull it from the u bend. Once the blockage has been removed, reinstall the u bend and tighten the pipe clamps.

If the blockage is not in the u bend then you will have to call a plumber to check the drain line to your homes main drain.

Unblock A Clogged Toilet

Michael Klements
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Unblock A Clogged Toilet

From time to time a toilet may become blocked due to too much toilet paper or foreign objects being flushed. In most cases, the blockage occurs in the bend in the toilet pan. The bend is designed to trap water to form an air tight barrier between the toilet and the drain so that no nasty smells make their way from the drain into your bathroom. Fortunately, it is quite easy to unblock a clogged toilet and you can save yourself some money by not having to call in a plumber.

What You’ll Need To Unblock Your Toilet

  • Toilet Plunger
  • WC Auger (Only If Above Doesn’t Work)
  • Corrosive Drain Cleaner (Only If Both Above Don’t Work)

How To Unblock Your Toilet

First try to dislodge the blockage using a plunger. The most common plunger is a cup shaped plunger however, flange and ball shaped plungers are better suited for toilets. Place the plunger in the toilet pan and quickly move it up and down to attempt to dislodge the blockage. If you do not have a plunger, attached a plastic bag firmly around a floor mop with cable ties. Place the bagged end into the toilet bowl as a make shift plunger and force the bag up and down with the mop handle. The bag assists in creating a plunger like seal around the bottom of the toilet pan.

If the plunger is unsuccessful then a toilet or WC auger should be used. The device consists of a flexible rod and a crank handle. Push the rod down into the pan and around the u bend, if a blockage is felt; turn the crank handle in order to dislodge the blockage. If possible, try and hook the blockage and pull it back into the toilet pan. From there it can be disposed of in the trash to prevent a blockage further down the drain line which will be more difficult to clear.

As a last resort, consider pouring corrosive drain cleaner into the pan which is designed to dissolve the blockage. Be careful when working with drain cleaner and follow the direction on the packaging.

If the blockage is not in the pan then you will have to call a plumber to check the toilet drain line to your homes main drain.

NOTE: IN SOME COUNTRIES OR REGIONS, IT IS ILLEGAL TO CARRY OUT UNLICENSED PLUMBING AND IF THERE IS A FAULT, YOUR INSURANCE MIGHT NOT PAY OUT. CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL AUTHORITIES BEFORE CARRYING OUT ANY PLUMBING REPAIRS ON YOUR HOME.

Smoked Trout, Avo & Poached Egg On Rye

Michael Klements
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Smoked Trout, Avo & Poached Egg On Rye

Trout, avo and a poached egg combine perfectly on a slice of toast for a delicious breakfast.

Makes 2 servings. Preparation time 15mins.

You Will Need:

  • 2 Slices Of Rye Bread
  • ½ Butter Avo
  • 60g (2oz) Smoked Trout Fillet
  • 2 Large Eggs

Toast the rye bread in a toaster or under the grill until the bread begins to darken on the edges. Thinly slice the avo and place half on the top of each bread slice. Next layout our half of the trout ribbons on the bed of avo. Poach the two eggs in boiling water for five minutes or to your liking. Top the trout with a poached egg, allowing the egg to cool off slightly before placing it onto the trout or it will cook the trout underneath the egg.

Garnish with basil leaves, dried basil and some cracked black pepper. For a slightly tangy taste, squeeze a little lemon over the trout before adding the egg.

Poached Egg

Michael Klements
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Poached Egg

A poached egg makes the perfect breakfast topper for a fresh slice of toast. There is a bit of technique involved but it is not overly difficult, follow these instructions for a perfect poached egg.

Makes 1 Poached Egg. Cooking Time 10mins.

You Will Need:

  • 1 Large Egg
  • 1 Tbsp Salt
  • 2 Tbsp White Vinegar
  • 6 Cups of Water

Boil the water in a medium sized pot over the stove. Add the salt and vinegar and turn the heat down until the water is simmering. Use a slotted spoon to gently stir the water in one direction so that it is smoothly spinning around the pot. Carefully crack one egg into the center of the whirlpool, the swirling water helps to keep the egg white from spreading out in the pot. After five minutes (or until cooked to your liking), gently lift the egg out of the water with the slotted spoon. Always cook eggs one at a time, they will not be able to be separated if two are dropped into the water together.

Poached eggs can be kept in cold water in the fridge for a day and can be heated up in warm water just before serving.

Install Laminate Wood Flooring Yourself

Michael Klements
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Install Laminate Wood Flooring Yourself

Laying laminate flooring is an affordable way to update a room in your home. This easy guide shows you how to lay laminate flooring to achieve a professional look without the expense of a flooring expert.

Laminate flooring can be laid over cement, brick or tiled surfaces however the floor needs to be clean, level and free from dirt. Laminate flooring is not recommended in bathrooms or laundry rooms where there is high humidity and moisture content as the boards will buckle and warp over time.

installing laminate flooring

What You Will Need To Lay Your Own Laminate Flooring

  • Laminate Flooring (10% More Than The Floor Area)
  • Underlay (10% More Than The Floor Area)
  • Quarter Round (Quadrant) Pine or Skirting (10% More Than The Perimeter Of The Room)
  • Hammer
  • Tapping Block
  • Jigsaw with Course Wood Blade
  • Laminate Guillotine or Circular Saw (Optional)

How To Lay Your Laminate Wood Flooring

Because laminate flooring is a wood product, it needs to acclimate before it can be installed. Leave the packaged laminate boards in the room where they are going to be installed for about 2-3 days to fully acclimate.

Next choose the lay of the floor. Decide in which direction the length of the planks will lie. Generally speaking, installing planks parallel to the longest wall in a room will make the room appear larger.

Prepare any doors which open over the laminate flooring. This is particularly important if you are laying the flooring over existing flooring such as tiles. The completed flooring will be between 10mm (1/3″) and 20mm (2/3″) higher than the previous flooring depending on what type of flooring you have bought. Check to see that the bottom of the doors in the room are high enough to clear the flooring. If they are not then use a vibratory saw to cut off the bottom section of the door to create the clearance. Alternately the door can be taken off its hinges and a circular saw can be used to cut the bottom of the door neatly.

laminate underlay

First begin by laying a section of underlay. The underlay is a foam type material which provides cushioning and sound absorption. Some manufacturers recommend taping adjacent sections of underlay with their provided tape or box tape. The underlay should cover the entire area on which the laminate flooring will be laid and should not overlap at any point.

wall spacer

Once the underlay is done, begin laying the boards. Lay the boards length ways in rows, one row the length of the room at a time. Laminate flooring is still a natural wood product and therefore expands and contracts with the humidity in the air. You need to allow a 10mm (1/3″) gap between the flooring and the walls around the perimeter of the room. This gap will then be covered by skirting or a quarter round (quad) of pine attached to the skirting.

cutting laminte

Adjacent rows should be staggered such that the joins along the boards lengths do not align in adjacent rows. To do this, cut the first plank of every second row in half using a circular saw or laminate flooring guillotine. Click each board into place as you work along completing the row.

tapping block

As you place boards, gaps may open up between boards and between rows. This must be checked continuously and a hammer and tapping block can be used to tap the boards back into place. The tapping block distributes the impact from the hammer along a portions of the board’s edge so that the face of the hammer doesn’t damage the edge.

At the corners, press the board up against the edge of the laid flooring and mark the width of the cut then press it up against the edge of the previous row and measure the length of the cut. Mark the cut area with a set square and ensure that a 10mm gap is left around the wall’s edge. To cut complex corners a jigsaw is the easiest tool to use as it has a narrow blade and provides visibility to the cutting area so that you can see your marked cutting lines.

quadrant over laminate

Once the flooring has been laid, install the skirting or quarter rounds of pine over the edge gaps. The skirting should just touch the top of the flooring and not be used to press down on the flooring. Cut the 45° corners with a mitre box. A nail gun can be used to attach the skirting or quarter rounds.  Finish off by painting the quarter rounds the same colour as the skirting or varnishing them in the same colour as the flooring.

If you’re installing laminate flooring to give your home and update, have a look at these 8 DIY projects to increase your home’s value.

What are your experiences with this project? Please share your comments, tips and advice with us in the comments section below, we would love to hear from you.

laminate flooring end

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How To Install Laminate Wood Flooring Yourself

White Chocolate Mousse & Jelly Dessert Cups

Michael Klements
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White Chocolate Mousse & Jelly Dessert Cups

These colourful dessert cups make the perfect dessert for an outside summer lunch. They look fancy but are extremely easy to make and only require three ingredients.

Makes about 6 servings. Preparation time 15mins, setting time 180mins.

You Will Need:

  • 1 Box Store Bought Jelly Powder
  • 200g (7oz) White Chocolate
  • 1 1/2 Cups of Heavy Cream

Mix up the jelly according to the directions on the box. This usually involves dissolving the powder in boiling water and then adding cold water to assist with setting. When the mixture is cool, pour a third of a cup into a drinking glass, these will be used as your serving cups.

Place the glasses in the refrigerator, leaning them against the side or on a baking tray so that the jelly liquid is angled from the bottom edge to the top edge of the glass. Allow the jelly to set for about 4 hours before adding the mousse to the cups.

Use our two ingredient white chocolate mousse recipe to make the white chocolate mousse using the chocolate and heavy cream. Spoon the mixture into the cups on top of the jelly, you may need to tap the glass on a counter to get the mousse to settle on the jelly with no large air bubbles.

Place the mousse and jelly cups into the refrigerator for 2 hours to allow the mousse to fully set. Garnish the cups with fresh berries or grated dark chocolate.

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