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How To Connect An ADXL345 3 Axis Accelerometer To An Arduino

In this guide, I’ll show you how to connect the ADXL345 3 axis accelerometer to an Arduino using the I2C communication protocol. The ADXL345 is a powerful accelerometer board which provides high resolution (13 bit) measurements up to +/- 16g. The data output is digital and can be accessed through either a 4 wire SPI or I2C digital interface. We will go through the basic connections as well as some of the core functions of the board in order to get your first accelerometer project up and running.

The ADXL345 supports both SPI and I2C communication, however, we are going to be using the I2C communicaiton protocol for two reasons; the first is that it leaves all of your analogue and digital pins open. I2C communication uses the SCL and SDA pins which are separate to your analogue and digital IO pins, unlike SPI communication which requires 4 IO pins. This leaves all of your IO pins available for your project. The second is that you need a 3.5V logic level converter if you are using a 5V Arduino (which are more common) with SPI communication as the accelerometer’s pins are only rated for 3.5V and not the 5V that the Arduino outputs.

This project assumes that you know the basics of Arduino programming, otherwise follow our guide on getting started with Arduino.

What You Need For Your ADXL345 Accelerometer Connection

Breadboard Connection

Prototype Shield Connection

  • An Arduino (Uno Used In This Guide) – Buy Here
  • ADXL345 Accelerometer Board – Buy Here
  • Arduino Prototyping Shield – Buy Here
  • 8 Pin Male Header Strip – Buy Here
  • 8 Pin Female Header Strip – Buy Here
  • Shield Male Header Strip Kit – If Not Included On Shield
  • Thin Insulated Wire – Buy Here

How To Connect The Accelerometer To Your Arduino

Before we start with the physical connections to your Arduino, lets have a look at the pins available on the ADXL345 board and their functionality.

ADXL345 3 Axis Accelerometer

The board has 8 pins with the following functions:

  • GND – Ground
  • VCC – Supply Voltage
  • CS – Chip Select
  • INT1 – Interrupt 1 Output
  • INT2 – Interrupt 2 Output
  • SDO – Serial Data Output (SPI) / I2C Address Select
  • SDA – Serial Data Input (SPI) / I2C Serial Data
  • SCL – Serial Communications Clock

Regardless of whether you are using a breadboard or assembling your board onto a prototyping shield, you’ll need to solder an 8 pin male header strip onto the terminals of your accelerometer board. You then use this strip to plug directly into a breadboard or you can plug it into an 8 pin female header strip which you’ll solder onto your prototyping shield.

I2C Connection Circuit Diagram

Now that you understand what each pin is being used for and you’ve soldered an 8 pin male header strip onto your accelerometer board, lets have a look at the I2C connection circuit diagram.

ADXL345 Connection Diagram

It is important to note that the Vcc pin is connected to the Arduino’s 3.3V supply and not the 5V supply, if you connect this incorrectly you may permanently damage your accelerometer board.

You’ll also notice that this connection method leaves all of your IO pins available for your project requirements.

Assemble The Components Onto A Breadboard

The breadboard assembly of this circuit is a really easy way to test the board, it does however have some limitations as this board relies on a good connection to the Arudino to transfer data and you’ll obviously need to move the accelerometer board around a bit to test that it is working. This may cause intermittent communication problems.

Plug the accelerometer board into your breadboard and connect the jumpers across to your Arduino. The final connection should look as follows.

ADXL345 Breadboard Connection 1

ADXL345 Breadboard Connection 2

Assemble The Components Onto A Prototyping Shield

Assembly onto a prototyping shield provides a more reliable connection to the accelerometer although it does require a bit more effort. Solder a 8 pin female header onto the shield for the accelerometer and make the connections to the required pins using some thin insulated wire on the underside of the board. Ensure that you choose a position on the prototyping shield which does not interfere with the components on the Arduino when plugged in.

Prototyping Shield Components

I have added a few more components to the prototyping shield in order to drive two servos and provide a few LEDs for indication.

Prototyping Shield Complete

All of the wiring connections have been made on the underside of the prototyping board to keep them protected.

Prototyping Shield Back Side Connections

The accelerometer board can then be plugged into the prototyping shield.

Prototyping Shield Complete - ADXL345 Mounted

Double check that all of your connections are correct and your board will then be ready to be tested with the sketch.

Upload The Sketch

The sketch is based on the Adafruit Sensor Library and the ADXL345 library, click on the links provided to download the libraries and install them into your Arduino IDE.

Once you have these two libraries installed, you can load the following sketch and upload it to your Arduino. You’ll need to open your Serial monitor to see the results coming from your board.

The sketch is built into the Adafruit library and can be accessed by clicking on File > Examples > Adafruit_ADXL345 > sensortest

#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_Sensor.h>
#include <Adafruit_ADXL345_U.h>

/* Assign a unique ID to this sensor at the same time */
Adafruit_ADXL345_Unified accel = Adafruit_ADXL345_Unified(12345);

void displaySensorDetails(void)
{
  sensor_t sensor;
  accel.getSensor(&sensor);
  Serial.println("------------------------------------");
  Serial.print  ("Sensor:       "); Serial.println(sensor.name);
  Serial.print  ("Driver Ver:   "); Serial.println(sensor.version);
  Serial.print  ("Unique ID:    "); Serial.println(sensor.sensor_id);
  Serial.print  ("Max Value:    "); Serial.print(sensor.max_value); Serial.println(" m/s^2");
  Serial.print  ("Min Value:    "); Serial.print(sensor.min_value); Serial.println(" m/s^2");
  Serial.print  ("Resolution:   "); Serial.print(sensor.resolution); Serial.println(" m/s^2");  
  Serial.println("------------------------------------");
  Serial.println("");
  delay(500);
}

void displayDataRate(void)
{
  Serial.print  ("Data Rate:    "); 
  
  switch(accel.getDataRate())
  {
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_3200_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("3200 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_1600_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("1600 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_800_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("800 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_400_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("400 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_200_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("200 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_100_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("100 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_50_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("50 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_25_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("25 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_12_5_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("12.5 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_6_25HZ:
      Serial.print  ("6.25 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_3_13_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("3.13 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_1_56_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("1.56 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_0_78_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("0.78 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_0_39_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("0.39 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_0_20_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("0.20 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_DATARATE_0_10_HZ:
      Serial.print  ("0.10 "); 
      break;
    default:
      Serial.print  ("???? "); 
      break;
  }  
  Serial.println(" Hz");  
}

void displayRange(void)
{
  Serial.print  ("Range:         +/- "); 
  
  switch(accel.getRange())
  {
    case ADXL345_RANGE_16_G:
      Serial.print  ("16 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_RANGE_8_G:
      Serial.print  ("8 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_RANGE_4_G:
      Serial.print  ("4 "); 
      break;
    case ADXL345_RANGE_2_G:
      Serial.print  ("2 "); 
      break;
    default:
      Serial.print  ("?? "); 
      break;
  }  
  Serial.println(" g");  
}

void setup(void) 
{
#ifndef ESP8266
  while (!Serial); // for Leonardo/Micro/Zero
#endif
  Serial.begin(9600);
  Serial.println("Accelerometer Test"); Serial.println("");
  
  /* Initialise the sensor */
  if(!accel.begin())
  {
    /* There was a problem detecting the ADXL345 ... check your connections */
    Serial.println("Ooops, no ADXL345 detected ... Check your wiring!");
    while(1);
  }

  /* Set the range to whatever is appropriate for your project */
  accel.setRange(ADXL345_RANGE_16_G);
  // displaySetRange(ADXL345_RANGE_8_G);
  // displaySetRange(ADXL345_RANGE_4_G);
  // displaySetRange(ADXL345_RANGE_2_G);
  
  /* Display some basic information on this sensor */
  displaySensorDetails();
  
  /* Display additional settings (outside the scope of sensor_t) */
  displayDataRate();
  displayRange();
  Serial.println("");
}

void loop(void) 
{
  /* Get a new sensor event */ 
  sensors_event_t event; 
  accel.getEvent(&event);
 
  /* Display the results (acceleration is measured in m/s^2) */
  Serial.print("X: "); Serial.print(event.acceleration.x); Serial.print("  ");
  Serial.print("Y: "); Serial.print(event.acceleration.y); Serial.print("  ");
  Serial.print("Z: "); Serial.print(event.acceleration.z); Serial.print("  ");Serial.println("m/s^2 ");
  delay(500);
}

You’ll need to remove the if statement in lines 112 to 114 if you’re using an Arduino Uno else you’ll get a compiler error.

In the serial monitor, you’ll get a read out of the initialisation data followed by a periodic reading of the X, Y and Z axis acceleration data. If you move the sensor around a bit, you’ll see these values changing.

You should now have enough information to take pieces from the code and use them to build your next accelerometer project.

You may be interested in building a balancing robot using one of these sensors, you could try giving it the ability to avoid obstacles with an ultrasonic sensor, have a look at our guide on Connecting An Ultrasonic Sensor To An Arduino.

Open House DIY Tips: How to Increase the Value of Your Property

Hosting an open house is a great opportunity to appeal to prospective buyers and create a positive first impression. However, it’s important that you enchant them on this occasion in order to ensure a great sale price. From minor repairs to simple decorating changes, there’s plenty of ways to style up your home and increase its value. Not only will you attract top buyers, but you’ll actually be able to get a high return on investment.

While you’re at it, have a look at these 10 Easy DIY Upgrades To Do This Weekend To Increase Your Home’s Value.

Enhance the Curb Appeal

You may not want to judge a book by its covers, but potential buyers will definitely judge your home by its exterior. The curb appeal of your property is the first thing buyers will notice, so make sure to style it up.

You don’t have to go with major remodelling projects, but with simple, impactful changes. From pulling out weeds, mowing the lawn and trimming the bushes to sweeping the driveway and lining the pathway with colourful flowers or painted stones, there’s plenty of DIY ideas that can enhance your home’s curb appeal and wow prospective buyers to increase it’s value.

Make the Entrance Stand Out

Make Your Entrance Stand Out

The front door is the focal point of your home’s exterior that needs to stand out. Furthermore, a worn-out entry door can lower your home’s value – nobody wants a door with cracks or paint peeling off. Thus, you should make sure that your front door stands out in a good light.

You can paint it in a different, but complementary hue or change the doorknob and add a house number. If it’s in a great condition, you can place potted flowers on both sides or fix the broken lanterns. These small changes can give your entrance a new look that will let it truly shine.

Grab a Bucket of Paint

Painting your walls is quite simple – it requires little effort, but it can completely transform your space. You don’t even have to repaint all the walls, but simply paint a single one in a different hue and transform it into an accent detail.

If you decide to paint the interior entirely, you should opt for a soft, neutral palette that will create an ambiance of comfort and appeal to most buyers. However, a single wall painted in a bold shade can enhance a certain feature, such as a lovely fireplace or a beautiful window with a view. Nonetheless, the accent colour should still fit into the general scheme and create a harmonious look.

Clean and Freshen Up

Clean And Freshen Up

No matter how stylish your home might be, buyers won’t even notice it if it’s cluttered and messy. Therefore, you need to make sure that your home is spotless and clutter-free. Not only will this make it more pleasant, but it will also make it seem more spacious and open.

Apart from dusting, vacuuming and cleaning the carpets and rugs, you should also create an airy atmosphere. This is particularly important if you’re hosting an open house during summer, which isn’t the peak selling season. Thus, you should add the best air purifier you can find to increase your indoor air quality and create a breezy atmosphere. Not only will the fresh air create a healthy atmosphere, but it will also make your home more pleasant and inviting.

Let the Sunlight In

Buyers love homes bathed in natural light, so make sure to let the sunshine in. Remove heavy drapes and place light curtains that will allow natural light to permeate your home. Your windows should be spotless, so don’t forget to clean possible stains or smudges.

However, if your home doesn’t get enough natural light, you should consider installing LED lights. These emit a bright glow similar to sunlight, so your home will appear brighter. Another solution entails introducing plenty of mirrors that will reflect the sunlight throughout your home. In addition, mirrors can elevate your home décor, too.

Create a Homely Atmosphere

Create A Homely Atmosphere

Although you should remove your personal and family belongings, your home shouldn’t look as if nobody lived there. It should still have a warm, welcoming appeal that will enable potential buyers to imagine themselves living with their families there.

Thus, you should make sure that your space has certain homey comforts, such as soft pillows, blankets and rugs. Introducing soft materials will help you create a cosy look. Furthermore, lighting can also make your home seem warm and inviting, so make sure to install several layers of light, including general, task and accent lights.

Decorate with Style

Decorations will add the finishing touch to your home, but you should avoid building up clutter. Instead, choose just a few impactful pieces that will give personality to your space. Several paintings, stylish groupings, fresh flowers and greenery are always a great way to create a complete, classic look that will add value and appeal to everyone.

There’s no need to give your home a complete makeover to increase its value. With these simple steps and easy changes, you can easily style it up for the open house day.

If you enjoyed this article, have a look at these 8 DIY Projects To Increase Your Home’s Value.

12 Tips for Organizing Your Closet

Most of us had some sort of experience as a kid being told to clean up our room or organize our closet. Some of us were lucky enough for that advice to stick, but for the rest of us – the people reading this article, I’d imagine – we haven’t had the time or dedication to develop our closet cleaning skills. Or maybe you’re just looking for some extra ideas that can help you turn your closet into an organized work of art. Or you just have OCD.

Whatever the reason you’re here, we’re going to give you something to take away. Today we’re going to outline the 12 coolest tips that you can use to help keep your closet organized.

If your home is feeling cluttered, here are 24 Tips On Becoming A Minimalist, Start Living The Simple Life.

1. Consider expanding

The closet doesn’t have to be the only storage room in your house. This can be one of the main reasons that leads to people developing some seriously overstuffed closets. If you’ve got extra room in your house, you should consider expanding your closet to encompass some of that space.

If you don’t have extra space, you can make some – you can just stick some wall racks or hangers up in your bedroom or in a hallway or in your bathroom. It’s impressive how much space you can create out of nothing.

2. Organize by height

One cool tip to help keep things easily accessible is to arrange your closet in accordance to what you wear the most and what you wear the least. You can store the things that you use all the time at eye level or body-height so they’re easily accessible, and stash things that you don’t wear very often below or above them.

You can put things you hardly wear, like celebratory shoes, on a rack at the very top. This area can house things that you’ll only need for specific occasions.

3. Get rid of some clutter

Unless you’re a meticulous closet-keeper, chances are there are some things in your closet that you don’t use. Heck, even people who keep their closet clean all the times are sometimes just reorganizing garments that they never use anymore.

Look at everything you haven’t worn in a few months. Chances are it’ll be hard to toss these things if they have sentimental memories attached to them, but the reality is is that if you haven’t worn it in a few months, the only time you ever think about it is when you see it in your closet. You won’t miss it once it’s gone.

4. Coordinate your hangers

You can coordinate your hangers so you can see what sort of items you’re looking through in any area. You can do this by colour coding them or getting a certain type of hanger for dresses, one type for jeans, one type for shirts, etc. This will also help your closet look fantastic in addition to making it easier for you to access things.

5. Use containers

Storage containers can go a long way, and you can use them to help organize your closet so you don’t just have things hanging. Many storage containers come with multiple levels so you can keep all sorts of different things organized without having to rifle through a single storage box.

Hanging organizers can also be utilized to provide an attractive, easily accessed storage area that allows you to use space that would have otherwise just been occupied by air.

6. Get some dividers or labels

Dividers are a great way to turn your bigger, bulkier shelves into more organized compartments. Dividers allow you to split up folded clothes from towels or other accessories while still allowing you to conserve as much space as possible.

Another way is by using printable labels for organizing stuff in your closet. You can grab some labels from your local craft store or create your own custom labels.

7. Make sure your closet is well-lit

You’ve probably had at least one experience where you’re looking for something and once you find it you realize that you must have glanced over it two or three times before you actually realized where it was.

This can be caused by improper lighting. Lighting a closet might not seem like the most immediate need but it will save you a lot of time and energy to get a light that actually illuminates all corners of your closet.

8. Replace your doors

We all know how much space a door can take up if it swings out. It can make it virtually impossible to access a certain area of your closet, or it can at least make it extremely inconvenient for you to do it because you’ll have to dance around the door while you close it in order to access whatever it’s blocking off.

You can replace it with a curtain or some sort of screen if you want to save the space that the door occupies when it swings open.

9. Use stackables

There are a lot of stackable containers that you can use to store things that will easily fit into each other when they’re not in use. This will allow you to only use storage as you need it and can also encourage you to keep getting rid of things that you don’t need anymore.

Laundry baskets and totes can fit into each other and can even hold items in them while they’re being stacked on top of each other.

10. Get some hooks

If you have empty wall space in your closet, think about all the stuff you could fit in your closet if you turned that wall space into storage space!

All you need to do is get some coat hooks. Coat hooks aren’t just for coats – you can hang shirts, dresses, hats, and all manner of things on a coat hook. This will allow you to clear up some space for your clothes hangers that you can put other garments on.

11. Colour code

One of the coolest things you can do with your closet is color code things. Colour code the different sections – you can colour code the things hanging on hooks and hangers, colour code your shoes and socks, colour code your pants.

Not only does this have a tremendous impact on how easy it is to find things in your closet, it also makes your closet look like a work of art. Instead of walking into an unorganized mess of hanging clothes, you’ll be walking into your own personal feng shui domain – and it’ll all be feng shui that you can wear. This also makes it a lot easier for you to pick the clothes you want to wear for the day.

12. Get some out-of-closet storage

Things like suitcases or boxes can be used to keep items that you only use in certain seasons out of your closet to clear up space for other things. Wool blankets and things of that nature can be stored in nice-looking containers in other areas of your house so they’ll double as decorations and also free up space in your closet.

If you enjoyed this post, why not try to Organise Under Your Kitchen Sink.

How To Modify A Servo For Continuous Rotation

Modifying a servo for continuous rotation opens up a number of possibilities for new Arduino projects, the modified servos essentially function as a PWM variable speed and direction motor which can easily be controlled by an Arduino or similar micro controller. This is a fairly simple modification to do and the process will be similar for many different servo models and sizes.

Do you have an old servo with stripped gears? Here’s a guide to repairing your stripped servo gears for under a dollar.

What You Need To Modify A Servo For Continuous Rotation

  • Analogue Servo – Turnigy TG9e Used Here
  • Precision Screwdriver Set – Buy Here
  • Side Cutters – Buy Here
  • Small Drill Bit Set – Buy Here
  • Electric Drill – Buy Here
  • Needle Nose Pliers – Buy Here
  • Electrical Insulation Tape – Buy Here

How To Modify The Servo For Continuous Rotation

The video below takes you through the step by step process to modify your servo for continuous rotation. A list of steps has also been provided after the video.

Steps To Modify Your Servo

  1. Remove the servo arm.
  2. Use a philips screwdriver to remove the four screws at the bottom of the servo.
  3. Remove the top gear cover.
  4. Remove the first, largest gear. The one which on which the servo arm is mounted.
  5. If you turn this gear over, you’ll see a stopper which mechanically limits the rotation of this gear. This stopper runs into the  adjacent gear when the arm reaches its travel limit. Use the side cutter to remove this stopper as close as possible to the gear.
  6. Next you’ll need to drill the hole in this gear slightly larger so that the gear turns freely on the potentiometer arm/shaft without being too loose. Some gears, like the one in this video, actually have a flat landing which locates the gear on the potentiometer arm for position control. This needs to be removed by drilling right through the gear.
  7. Replace the large gear onto the potentiometer shaft.
  8. Replace the top gear cover.
  9. Remove the stickers on the side of the servo which also hold the bottom cover in place.
  10. Remove the bottom cover and then move the small circuit board out of the housing and away from the potentiometer.
  11. Use a screwdriver to remove the small plastic cover which protects the potentiometer terminals.
  12. Now use your needle nose pliers to remove the three wires from the potentiometer terminals.
  13. Stripe the insulation off of the three wires and twist them together to make a secure connection.
  14. Cover the joint with insulation tape to prevent a short circuit on the circuit board.
  15. Flatten the potentiometer terminals to make place for the insulated joint.
  16. Push the plastic cover back into place.
  17. Replace the circuit board.
  18. Replace the bottom cover.
  19. Replace the four screws and tighten them to secure the top and bottom covers.
  20. Your servo has now been modified for continuous rotation. Your servo will now run continuously in each direction and will be speed controllable around the mid point of the PWM signal.

Have you got a good idea for a servo based Arduino project? Try building your own servo controlling xduino board.

Have you modified one of your servos for continuous rotation? Let us know in the comments section below.

How To Replace Stripped Servo Gears – Example Done On Turnigy TG9e

If you’ve ever used servos, particularly micro servos for RC or robotics projects then you’ve likely encountered stripped servo gears. You can hear the motor turning inside the servo but the servo arm movement is limited or erratic. The good news is that this doesn’t mean that you need to throw the servo out, in fact replacement gear sets are available online for under a dollar. This guide takes you through the replacement step by step.

Once you’ve got your servo working again, why not use it to build an Arduino based solar tracker?

What You Need To Replace Stripped Servo Gears

  • Servo With Stripped Gears
  • Replacement Gear Set – Buy Here
  • Precision Screwdriver Set – Buy Here
  • White Lithium Grease (Optional) – Buy Here

How To Replace The Stripped Servo Gears

You’ll want to work at a clean work bench so that you don’t lose any of the small parts and you don’t get any dirt into the replacement set. Dirt in the gear teeth will dramatically reduce the gear life and may even burn the motor out due to sticking.

Follow the guide in the video below in order to replace your servo gears. The steps are listed below the video as well.

Replacement Steps

  1. Remove the four bottom screws
  2. Pull the top gear cover off
  3. Remove the gears and identify the stripped gear. You may want to replace just the stripped gear or all of the gears.
  4. Check inside the gear cover to make sure there are no pieces of gear teeth left stuck in the grease. These teeth may get caught in the new gears and strip them as well.
  5. Fit the replacements, starting with the gear with the finest teeth and working up towards the gear with the largest teeth. They will only fit in one order so don’t force them.
  6. The final gear, the one on which the servo arm sits, usually has a locating flat surface which turns the potentiometer. Make sure that this lines up correctly or the gear won’t go onto the shaft.
  7. Add a drop of white lithium grease onto the teeth. This is optional but it does dramatically improve the life of your new set.
  8. Replace the top gear cover.
  9. Replace the four bottom screws and screw the cover back on.
  10. Replace your servo arm and your servo is ready to be used again.

Have a look at some of our other Arduino projects.

Have you done a gear replacement on one of your servos? Was your servo slightly different inside? Let us know in the comments section below.

Chimney Fires 101

Let’s be honest: of all the places in your home that you could have an out-of-control fire, the chimney seems like an “okay” spot for it. After all, aren’t hearths designed to contain fires? And aren’t they built to withstand smoke and heat?

Unfortunately, while they are usually capable of dealing with decent-sized flames in a connected fireplace, that situation is a far cry from the chimney itself being on fire. Chimney fires are destructive, costly to recover from, and potentially quite dangerous. Read on for more information about this phenomenon, including ways to prevent it from happening in your home.

Here’s a useful check list to go through every fall to prepare your home for the winter months.

Why Chimney Fires Occur

More often than not, chimney fires start when built-up creosote inside the structure ignites. Creosote is a byproduct of wood combustion; it consists mainly of tar, is tacky to the touch, and is highly flammable. Traces of the stuff can be found in smoke, and when smoke rises up from a fireplace, it mingles with cold air and water vapor.

This causes the creosote to solidify and stick to the liner (or the brickwork itself, if the chimney is unlined). Creosote is more likely to accrue in chimneys with poor ventilation, but because a buildup of creosote can cause ventilation issues, creosote essentially exists in a self-perpetuating cycle. In severe cases, all it takes is a single, errant spark to ignite all of the accumulated creosote in a chimney.

Improperly installed or maintained liners can also cause issues if they fail to contain the sparks and embers naturally produced by a hearth fire. Although the liner is designed to withstand the high temperatures of open flames and cinders, the rest of the chimney (and the surrounding areas, especially your attic) can’t handle the heat and combustion so easily. Again, a few errant sparks can be the beginning of a blazing inferno.

The Scene of the Crime

Odd as it may sound, some chimney fires go completely unnoticed. While it’s possible (and quite easy) for chimney fires to spread to a house’s roof or attic, it’s also not uncommon for them to run out of oxygen and fizzle out without ever leaving the flue. And because people generally don’t spend much time staring at their chimneys, they just don’t realize that anything is amiss. It’s not until later, when they’re having it inspected for whatever reason, that a technician informs them that they dodged a bullet.

Here are some signs of fire damage in chimneys:

  • Caked-on creosote having a “puffy” or honeycomb-like appearance.
  • Warping of metal internal mechanisms.
  • Flue tiles that are damaged, loose, or missing large chunks.
  • Visible damage to (or warping of) the chimney cap.
  • Scorch marks on the flashing or roof.
  • Cracks or smoke damage to the chimney’s mortar or brickwork.
  • Chunks or flakes of creosote outside the chimney itself.

Now, these are subtle signs that are detectable after the fact. Signs that a chimney is currently on fire include:

  • Cracking, popping, or rumbling noises coming from within the structure.
  • Thick, black smoke pouring from the top of the chimney. While some smoke is normal when a fuel source is burned in the fireplace, smoke will be noticeably darker and denser.
  • Visible flames shooting out of the top of the chimney.
  • A “burnt” smell or intense heat radiating from the chimney, especially if the fireplace is not currently in use.

If you happen to notice that your chimney is currently burning, you should immediately evacuate your home and call 911! Don’t make the mistake of assuming that the fire will put itself out; house fires are not the kind of thing that people should gamble on!

One way to help keep the fire at bay until emergency services arrive is to take a garden hose and soak your chimney’s flashing and the surrounding area with water; this will reduce the likelihood that the fire will spread to your roof. However, please only attempt this technique if you can do so without putting yourself (or others) in harm’s way!

Beat the Heat

The number one way to prevent chimney fires is to have it professionally inspected and cleaned annually. A licensed technician will be able to examine every inch of your chimney and fireplace to verify that everything is working properly. If something is amiss, it’s best to catch and solve the problem before it escalates.

Chimney caps can also be critical for fire prevention. A humble cap can do wonders for keeping debris (e.g., sticks, leaves, airborne pieces of garbage) and animals from getting inside and causing blockages. Not only will blockages contribute to creosote buildup, but the detritus itself may essentially become kindling for any fire that erupts.

Chimney fires can be destructive (and a more than a little frightening), but the good news is that they’re fairly easy to prevent. As with all other structural issues in your home, it’s absolutely critical that you pay attention and perform regular maintenance. If you suspect that something is wrong, it’s never a good idea to simply ignore the situation in hopes that it will resolve itself. So tackle problems as soon as you notice them…or hand the job over to a professional. Cleaning and repairing a chimney is a dirty job, but someone’s gotta do it!

10 Arduino Sensor Modules You Can Buy For Less Than $5

When you’re stuck for ideas for your next Arduino project, and easy place to start is by looking for a sensor to learn to use. Once you’ve got the sensor up and running, you’ll be able to find an application for it and turn it into a project. Here are 10 different modules which are available on Amazon and eBay for under $5, in fact most of them are under $2.

HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Distance Measuring Sensor

HC-SR04-Ultrasonic-Sensor

The ultrasonic distance measurement module uses ultrasonic sound waves to measure the distance between itself and an object. It is a really easy module to use and an entire Arduino library exists to assist you with programming your Arduino to operate with it. Here’s the purchase link for the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Distance Measuring. Here’s our guide on using the ultrasonic module with your Arduino.

Speed Sensor Module

Speed Sensor Module

This tachometer allows you to measure the speed of a motor. It can be used to measure both the speed and position of a motor. Here’s the purchase link for the Speed Module.

Photoresistor Module

Photoresistor Sensor Module

The photoresistor module allows your Arduino to be triggered through a digital input when a certain level of light is detected. The light level set point can be set through the on board potentiometer. Here’s the purchase link for the Photoresistor Module. You could try build your own lightning camera trigger using this module.

Barometric Pressure Module

BMP280 Pressure Sensor Module

Barometric pressure can be used to determine the height of your robot or projectile or as a sensor on your weather or home automation system. Here’s the purchase link for the BMP280 Pressure Module.

5V Relay Module

5V Relay Module

A relay module allows you to switch and control a wide range of devices which the Arduino is not able to provide enough current to switch itself. Here’s the purchase link for the 5V Relay Module.

Sound Level Microphone Detection Module

Sound Level Microphone Detection Module

This sound level sensor module has two different outputs, one which is a set point set by the on board potentiometer which triggers the output at a certain sound level and the second provides a scaled voltage output for the instantaneous sound level. Here’s the purchase link for the Sound Level Microphone Detection Module.

Infrared Obstacle Avoidance Sensor (Pack of 4)

Infrared IR Obstacle Avoidance Sensor This module can be used to detect objects in front of the sensor between 2cm and 30cm. It is all adjusted on the module and the Arduino simply monitors its single output pin. This is one of the more useful and cheapest modules on this list as you get 4 in a pack for under $3! Here’s the purchase link for the Infrared Obstacle Avoidance.

3 Axis Accelerometer Gyroscope Module

3 Axis Accelerometer Gyroscope ModuleThis module is used to measure the acceleration and inclination of an object. It can be used to build a gesture based controller or is also commonly used for drone applications. Here’s the purchase link for the 3 Axis Accelerometer Gyroscope Module.

Pyroelectric Infrared PIR Motion Detector

Pyroelectric Infrared PIR Motion Detector

This module is a PIR motion detector which uses infrared to detect humans and pets. It can be used to turn lights on and off or create a simple alarm system. Here’s the purchase link for the Pyroelectric Infrared PIR Motion Detector.

Soil Hygrometer Sensor Module For Moisture

Soil Hygrometer Moisture Sensor

In a pack of 5 for under $5, this sensor is also a bargain. These sensors can be used to automate your garden watering process or to water your indoor plants. It’s the beginning of an interesting addition to your home automation system. Here’s the purchase link for the Soil Hygrometer Module For Moisture.

Now that you’ve found a few new sensors to work with, you should have a few ideas for some new projects. If you’re still looking for new ideas, have a look at the projects in this book:

Practical Arduino Projects
Practical Arduino Projects – Available as an eBook or in Print.

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10 Arduino Modules You Can Buy For Less Than $5

Homemade Super Glue Recipe, Make Your Own Glue

Making your own glue is a fun and rewarding project and you’ll learn a bit about glue in process. You may want to get a few re-usable jars to keep your it in until you’re ready to use it, baby food storage jars work well and are easy to clean afterwards – buy here.

Here are a few recipes along with a brief description of what each one is best used for.

Strengthen up your repair with this neat hack, it works with both store bought and homemade super glue.

Gum Arabic Super Glue Recipe

This glue is best used to repair broken crockery, vases and china. Use a toothpick or matchstick to apply a thin coat along the broken edges and then press and hold them together. It takes around an hour to dry and cures completely in 24 hours. Small pieces will be able to be handles after about fifteen minutes. This glue keeps for about a year in a sealed jar.

  • 3 Tablespoons of Gum Arabic – Buy Here
  • 1 Tablespoon of Glycerin – Buy Here
  • 1/2 Tablespoon Water

Mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl. Keep the glue in an airtight container and it will last for about a year.

Waterproof Glass Glue Recipe

This glue works well on glass and china and can also be used to attach labels onto glass, cans and jars. When using it as a label glue, warm it up slightly in a pan to make it liquid. When using it to repair china, use it in its thick gelled form.

  • 1/2 Ounce / 2 Packets of Gelatin – Buy Here
  • 3 Tablespoons Skim Milk – Buy Here
  • Mint Extract – Buy Here
  • 2 Tablespoons of Cold Water

Pour the two tablespoons of water into a mixing bowl. Sprinkle in the two packets of gelatin and allow it to stand for about an hour. Heat up the milk until it is almost boiling and add it to the gelatin mixture, stir until the gelatin has dissolved completely. Add a few drops of mint extract, this acts as a preservative and makes it last a very long time.

Waterproof Glue Recipe

This is the second waterproof glue recipe, however, this one does not use any milk. This recipe needs to be used straight away, while it is still warm. To use it again, put your jar in hot water to soften it up again. It should be applied with a thin brush and will take up to a day to fully cure.

  • 6 Tablespoons of Water
  • 1/2 Ounce / 2 Packets of Gelatin – Buy Here
  • 2 Tablespoons of White Vinegar – Buy Here
  • 1 Teaspoon of Glycerin – Buy Here

Bring the water to the boil in a saucepan. Take the water off of the heat and stir in the two packets of gelatin until it has all dissolved. Add the vinegar and glycerin and stir well. Allow it to cool a little before using it or storing it in your container.

If you enjoyed trying out this recipe, here are some other DIY recipes which you may enjoy – Make Your Own Fabric SoftenerHomemade Velveeta Cheese.

7 Simple Steps To Convert A Tub Into an Upscale Walk-In Shower

There are two kinds of bathrooms. There are the ones that impress guests and there are ones that gross out guests. When someone asks you to use your bathroom, are you stricken by a sudden wave of panic that they might notice the bathtub caked with colorful layers of mildew? Have you been wondering for a long time whether it is time to replace that run-down tub with a walk in shower?

If you are like most people, then you also have a couple of concerns. Will the tub fit? How would I even go about installing one? Where would I even start? The good news is that the process is more straightforward than it seems.

In this guide, you will learn 7 steps to transform your cramped bathtub into a beautiful, spacious walk in shower that you can be proud of.

1. Gain More Space by Manipulating the Layout With a Curvier Design

Gain More Space by Manipulating the Layout With a Curvier Design

Every bit of space counts when converting your tub. The feeling of having a spacious shower is not about how big the actual room is but instead about the atmosphere of the room itself. Architects and designers have been using the same secrets for ages to make small rooms feel spacious.

And you will be doing the same.

To start, take advantage of your tub’s sidewall (usually 36″ deep) by employing a curved shower pan with a front bow. This simple first step will augment the feeling of the actual floor space making it look approximately 20% bigger.

2. Ditch the Shower Curb to Redefine Your Showering Space

Ditch the Shower Curb to Redefine Your Showering Space

Most manufacturers build showers with 4″ to 6″ curbs. However, these curbs contribute to the shower’s cramped feeling. To make your bathroom feel more spacious and look more luxurious, get rid of the curb!

Instead, opt in for a tile shower pan with a ramped entrance. To create a rich atmosphere, take it a step further by having the shower and bathroom be on two different levels. Whether you want the shower on a lower level or a higher level is up to you and your style preference.

While this trick may seem simple, it is a staple of modern luxurious bathrooms.

3. Proper Plumbing Makes All the Difference

Proper Plumbing Makes All the Difference

When converting your tub into a walk-in shower, it is a necessity to get aesthetically pleasing and practical plumbing. For starters, upgrade any 1 ½” pipes into broader 2″ pipes for enhanced water flow. An upscale shower is not just about the looks, it is also about the experience so having proper water flow is paramount.

It is also essential to replace your low-quality shower drain with a more sleek, linearly designed one. Nothing is grosser than a shower drain clogged with hair and dirt. Invest in a high quality shower drain that prevents build up and matches your new bathroom’s style.

These small plumbing changes will help your bathroom boast its contemporary design and increases the overall showering experience.

4. Take Advantage of Walls and Floors for Added Comfort

Take Advantage of Walls and Floors for Added Comfort

Add an inexpensive floor heating system so you can shower in a cozy, soothing environment that will leave your muscles relaxed to their core. Attach a small bench to the wall for whenever you want just to sit and let the warm water drizzle on your skin.

This simple upgrade alone will transform showering from a chore into a pleasurable experience. Imagine how amazing it would feel to unwind in such a soothing shower after a long day!

5. Add Wall Storage for a Cleaner Look

Add Wall Storage for a Cleaner Look

You have seen it before: Showers littered with shampoo, soaps and conditioners dangling from tacky wall holders. And you have felt it too. The cluttered environment takes away the magic from your showering experience. Nothing looks and feels worse than a cramped shower. Go the extra mile to free up bathroom space!

The easy, cheap and upscale fix to this is to carve pockets into your walk in’s walls. By being able to store your essentials in the walls, it frees up standing space thus creating a more liberating, relaxing feel.

6. Remove Bathroom Floor Tiles for an Upscale Feel

Remove Bathroom Floor Tiles for an Upscale Feel

A clean bathroom is an impressive one while a dirty one is repelling. The problem with most tile layouts is that they gather molds, fungi, dirt, and hair between each tile. Moreover, keeping a tiled bathroom clean requires an excessive amount of upkeep that most people just do not have the time for.

Get rid of the bathroom floor tiles and instead replace it with PVC wall panels, or solid, sleek, contemporary surface units. For starters, a solid surface will spare you from having to get those deep scrubs that grimy tile surfaces usually require. Most importantly though, it will give your bathroom a clean, modern and upscale feel.

7. Express Your Unique Style with Hand-Picked Shower Glass

Express Your Unique Style with Hand-Picked Shower Glass

There’s a false notion that glass is just glass; it, in fact, comes in many different qualities and is an opportunity for you to add your own custom designs. A glass shower wall completes your walk-in shower and upscale bathroom by giving it an open-air feel. The seemingly open space makes your shower feel bigger than it actually is.

For a personal touch, you can order the glass with custom designs to add that extra bit of luxury. However, to match the modern design, it is important to get sleek or linear designs instead of tacky ones.

Conclusion

Converting your bathtub into a walk-in shower is an exciting project. You will have the opportunity to turn a dirty suffocating space into a clean, spacious, upscale room. Instead of repelling your guests, your designs will impress them. And lastly, your modern bathroom will be more practical, more efficient and your showers will not just be showers, they will be an experience.

Even though the conversion requires much upfront work, if you follow these seven steps, you will have built your own upscale walk in shower in no time.

Make Your Own Wine Cork Shadow Box

Follow this step by step guide to make your own wine cork shadow box. It is a really easy beginners wood work project and it makes a beautiful gift. The complete shadow box takes a day or two to make, although most of the time is taken up waiting for glue or varnish to dry.

The sizes given below are as per the finished product in the pictures but you can easily adapt the sizes to suite what you have available at your local hardware store, lying around your house or to suite the size of the box you’d like to make.

Read the full step by step text instructions below or watch this instructional video on how to make your own wine cork box. Purchase links for the tools and equipment used have been included in the “what you need” list to help you out.

What You’ll Need To Make Your Wine Cork Shadow Box

Materials

  • 600 x 400 x 20mm Timber Sheet
  • 120 x 20 x 2400mm Timber Plank
  • 405 x 605 x 3mm Glass Cut To Size
  • 350 x 350mm Vinyl Text Sticker
  • Wood Glue – Buy Here
  • Picture Hanger & Screws – Buy Here
  • Optional – Clear Wood Varnish – Buy Here
  • Optional – 120 Grit Sandpaper – Buy Here

Tools

How To Make Your Wine Cork Shadow Box

Start off by measuring out a 600mm length of your timber and cutting it off with your miter box.

Measure out 600mm For The Vertical Sides

Cut a second one to make the two vertical edges of your box.

Cut The Wood With A Miter Box

Next measure and cut two 440mm lengths of timber. These need to be cut longer than 400mm as they will overlap the vertical sides once your box is assembled.

Measure And Cut 440mm Top And Bottom

Once you have your lengths cut, you need to use your Dremel rotary tool and 5mm slot attachment to cut a slot in each of the sides of your shadow box to hold the glass.

Dremel With 5mm Slot Attachment

The Dremel router table helps keep your Dremel in place at a consistent depth and assists in cutting straight lines. Position your Dremel to cut around 5mm from the front face of each plank and around 5mm deep.

Position Your Dremel To Cut 5mm Deep

Cut the slot the full length of the 600mm planks.

Cut The Slot The Full Length Of The 600mm Planks

Cut the slot in the 440mm planks leaving around 5-10mm of clearance on each end. These ends will overlap the slots you’ve cut into the 600mm planks once assembled.

Leave Some Wood At The Ends Of The 440mm Planks

Measure out the center (45mm) of the left side plank and measure 30mm down from the top.

Measure Out The Hole For The Corks

Use your drill and hole saw to drill out a 40mm hole in the side.

Use A Drill And 40mm Hole Saw

Now that you’ve finished cutting and preparing all of your wood, trial fit the pieces to make sure that all the edges and slots line up.

Trial Fit Your Pieces Of Wood

Glue the two 600mm sides onto the 600mm sides of your timber sheet. Make sure the edges are flush with the bottom of the sheet and lined up with the ends of the sheet. The slot should be at the top on the inside of the box.

Glue The Vertical Sides On

If you have clamps, clamp the edges in place until the glue has dried. Now glue the bottom 440mm bottom side into place. Line it up with the edges of the 600mm sides and ensure that the slot it lined up all the way around. Do not glue the top side into place!

Glue The Bottom Side Into Place

If you are going to varnish or colour stain your wine cork shadow box, you’ll need to varnish/stain the inside of the box now. Varnish the inside of the back sheet, the inside of the three side panels and finally the inside edge of the loose top piece. You won’t be able to get to these areas once the glass is in place.

Varnish The Inside Edges And Back Of Your Box

Once the varnish/stain has dried completely, slide the glass into place in the slots. Be gentle and don’t force it if it gets stuck as it may break. You may need to clean up some areas in the slots to get the glass to fit perfectly. Remember to clean the inside of the glass with window cleaner or rubbing alcohol before inserting it as you won’t be able to clean it later.

Slide The Glass Sheet Into Place

With the glass in place, you can glue the top side on. Line it up and make sure that the slot lines up with and covers the top edge of the glass.

Glue The Top Side Into Place

Allow the top side’s glue to dry, then varnish/stain the outside and the back of the box.

Varnish The Outside Of The Box

When the varnish/stain is dry, turn the box over. Mark the centre for the picture hanging hook and then screw it into place, it should be positioned roughly two thirds of the way up the back of the box.

Install The Picture Hanger On The Back

Finally, turn the box back over and apply the vinyl stickers. It’s a good idea to clean the glass with window cleaner before applying the sticker. It is easier to get someone to help you with the sticker so that it doesn’t wrinkle or fold over itself. Apply the sticker on one side and work your way over to the other side to avoid wrinkles and bubbles.

Apply The Vinyl Wall Sticker

You wine cork shadow box is now ready to be hung up. Put a screw into the wall and hang the box up on it. Read up how to install a screw in a masonry wall here.

We like to write the date and the initials of those who joined us for the special occasion onto the cork before popping it into the box.

Wine Cork Box With Corks In It

Have you made your own cork shadow box? Let us know in the comments section below.